Next, support the tank and remove the straps that hold it. I had about five gallons in it and wouldn't try this with any more. A helper would have been nice at this point.
As I started to lower the tank it began to tilt towards the driver's side because the filler neck is over the frame on the passenger side. What followed was a balancing act with jack stands and careful lowering of the tank until the filler hose could be pushed aside.
With the tank lowered about a foot I could reach in and undo the supply, return, and fuel evap hoses.
After that the tank was lowered the rest of the way. I was fortunate that someone had spliced in a section to the wire in the foreground so it was long enough to remain attached, and the two wires in the back are long enough in stock form so the electrical was left hooked up.
At this point I spent lots of time removing as much dirt as possible from the neck area. A wire brush, vaccuum, and air hose are good to have. A hammer and brass drift were used to rotate the locking ring about 180 degrees (light colored ring in photo) until the release points lined up.
With the locking ring loose the pump can be removed from the tank. The float (lower right) sits under the lip towards the back so you have to first pull the filter sock up through the neck then tilt the whole assy towards the rear of the vehicle so the float can come out.
In the pic below and looking at the underside of the filler neck, the top, shorter Z shaped pipe is the supply connected to the pump. The 3" long tube below that is the overfill return. Just behind that is the longer Z shaped tube that is the return line from the throttle body which carries unused fuel back to the tank. The return tube also has a bracket attached to the bottom of it that the pump sits on.
The pump comes with a foam tube around it to help quiet the noise. Don't know how effective it is but the Walbro is the same diameter so I reused it. I also reused the two black hose clamps because they looked better than the ones that came with the new pump.