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Old 10-09-2010, 07:05 AM   #1
 
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Default 85 K10 Rolling Chassis to K20
********** ********** UNDER CONSTRUCTION ********** **********

Here is another one of my several Squarebody projects. This is an 85 K10 that was originally a 6.2 Diesel /700r4/NP208 set up with 10 bolt front and rear diffs and 3.08 Gear ratio. It had been converted to 383 stroker gas /Turbo 350/NP208. I bought the truck as a rolling chassis without any powertrain at all for $200. It has some cab corner rust, but rockers and floor pan are solid. Also has a bit of rust on the bed at the lower edges of the rear wheel wells. Nothing severe but will require some work hours to make it real nice and get of what little rust it does have resolved and repaired.
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Old 10-09-2010, 07:23 AM   #2
 
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I have already acquired a good working NP208 for $50 and it came with the shift linkage rod, and the adapter for a T350/700r4. Would prefer NP205, but for now, more less just want it running and it will be work in progress as it goes since it does not have to be my DD when I do get it running. Intent is to build a nice mild SBC 350 with an RV cam for some low end torque. I do have a Turbo 350 for it as a back up, but I also have an 89 700r4 K case to build that I intend to beef up and see if it can stand up to some abuse. If not, the T350 will go in its place. I have also already acquired a CUCV 4.56 Detroit Locker 14b FF, but have not acquired a front diff yet, and I really don't want to spend the bucks to regear the 10 bolt front diff, so I will probably run it initially with the factory 10 bolt diffs front and rear. If I break them, no loss, so what.
For lift, I want to use this 1 ton 10 spring pack of 56 inch springs I have. Currently the truck has 52 in rear springs. So I'll be moving the hangers to the back set of holes to accomodate the 56 in 1 ton springs, then I will check into Crazy4Offroad's idea of using the 52 in rear springs up front and see if come out with a net of 4 inch spring suspension lift in the front and rear and it be level. Wanna run a 35in tire, about max and even pushing a bit for 10 bolt diffs. I am sure I can find a 8 lug Dana 44 front set up for a reasonable price around here, although, I'd sure prefer a D60 when funds come available. I have even seen some 4.10 front and rear 14b FF and D44 8 lug matching axles at a good price. I guess could run that 4.10 instead of the 4.56 and just take the Dt Locker out of the CUCV reear end and install into the 4.10 14b FF rear end, and just run 4.10's instead of 4.56. No intention of any extreme wheeling yet, just want to get it running by winter in case of bad weather like last year, then I can upgrade as funds and time are available. Axles first, the evenually NP 205. Once I get all the good stuff in it, then it might be a bit more extreme usage. Any idea's or suggestions???
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Old 10-09-2010, 09:14 AM   #3
 
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Sounds like you got the right plan so far. For the rear you were mentioning moving the shackle hangers to the rear holes. I dont think you'll gain any lift, just an improved shackle angle. Check out Offroad Designs shackle flip kits and you wont need to worry about rear blocks or how to come up with a couple more inches. Instead you may have to take a couple springs out of the bottom of the pack to bring it down with the shackle flip...
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

Only other thing I would add is when you're on the hunt for an NP205 look for one from a K30 or 4WD wrecker. They have 32 spline output shafts and the yokes are upgradable to moly's with 1350 joints, and the front double cardan joint is easier to eliminate. I know, some people say why would I need to build it up so much? Well why not?? If you like to let the ponies run, and you end up with a BUNCH of ponies, you'll be glad for the piece of mind that you're built to the hilt. I've had way too many 3R joints go bad this year, with needle bearings that look like silver solder. And if I were you I would opt for the D60 front instead of the D44, but you would be a bunch of money ahead going with the D44. I've had my truck for a while and I dont like having to redo things, which is why I'm going 1-ton.
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:54 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by crazy4offroad View Post
Sounds like you got the right plan so far. For the rear you were mentioning moving the shackle hangers to the rear holes. I dont think you'll gain any lift, just an improved shackle angle. Check out Offroad Designs shackle flip kits and you wont need to worry about rear blocks or how to come up with a couple more inches. Instead you may have to take a couple springs out of the bottom of the pack to bring it down with the shackle flip...
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm

Only other thing I would add is when you're on the hunt for an NP205 look for one from a K30 or 4WD wrecker. They have 32 spline output shafts and the yokes are upgradable to moly's with 1350 joints, and the front double cardan joint is easier to eliminate. I know, some people say why would I need to build it up so much? Well why not?? If you like to let the ponies run, and you end up with a BUNCH of ponies, you'll be glad for the piece of mind that you're built to the hilt. I've had way too many 3R joints go bad this year, with needle bearings that look like silver solder. And if I were you I would opt for the D60 front instead of the D44, but you would be a bunch of money ahead going with the D44. I've had my truck for a while and I dont like having to redo things, which is why I'm going 1-ton.
No doubt the K30 would be the way to go if I could, had those funds or could even find one. On the 205, you mention 1 ton or 4wd wrecker, If not mistaken a NP205 that came behind a SM465, is the 32 spline, and so is one that came behind a Turbo 400. I do believe that to be the case. Not 100% certain, but I'll sure check into that when the time comes.
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Old 10-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #5
 
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Mine is from a 78 K10 with SM465, and the 205 has 27 spline yokes.
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Old 10-09-2010, 10:37 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by crazy4offroad View Post
Mine is from a 78 K10 with SM465, and the 205 has 27 spline yokes.
Well then, that kinda blows my theory and thoughts then doesn't it? Provided yours was the original. Maybe its just the Turbo 400 then? I'll certainly check further into that then. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:06 AM   #7
 
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So now, after reading another thread. It appears I'll need to shift gears here and change plans. My CUCV 14bFF or my 1 ton 14bFF rear end that I have, is going to have the wrong spring perch distance to bolt into this K10. No big deal really. The 1 ton axle was a Freebie. And the CUCV axle with disk brake conversion kit, I only paid $125 for and the Detroit Locker is worth that. I'll take the D Locker out of it and install it in my Burb 14b FF with 3.73 gears, and possibly the Disk Brake conversion too. Then, next time I come across one of these 3/4 ton 4x4 rolling chassis deals with D44/14bFF combo for $250, I'll jump on it and have both matching axles for the K10, or punt all together, just get my K10 going as a wussy wagon with the 10bolts 3.08 gears and leave it as is, and for what I want to do, sounds like I really do want a K30. And I'd end up with the good NP205 I eventually wanted to put in the K10 also. Just leave the K10 a K10 and find me a K30 might be best.
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:41 AM   #8
 
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People who modify Jeeps really like to find DRW 14 bolts since they are a little more narrow they dont have as much trouble getting their tires under fender flares. So you might be able to sell it to someone like that. When I say I'm doing a 1-ton upgrade it's mainly the front axle. The 14b I have is out of a 3/4 ton but they can also be found under 1-ton SRW trucks, only difference is the number of ribs on the pumpkin. 3/4 tons have only 4 ribs, I forget how many the 1 tons have but I think it is at least twice as many.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:44 AM   #9
 
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Another solid looking project. I like!


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Old 10-11-2010, 11:01 PM   #10
 
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Thanks Old. After figuring out these 1 ton perch issues, I am not as far along as collecting my parts for that project as I had thought. Sounds like I shouldn't have passed up 2 junk rust bucket rolling 3/4 ton 4x4 rolling chassis w/ D44 and 14bFF and springs for $300 each I'd have had my choice of 2 of them, and both had the same axles and 4.10 gear ratios. One of them even came with a good frame and a Rebuildable 350 4 Bolt. Gone Now, but there will be others.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:23 PM   #11
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The only 27 spline 205's came from behind the TH350. The majority of SM465/205 combo's out there are 10 spline. Neither of those 205's have the burly 32 spline front output either.

The SM 465 in later years became 32 spline, but the majority of those got a NP208 or NP241 behind them.

If you find a SM465/205 and it has the figure 8 adaptor...it's 10 spline. If it has the round 6 bolt adaptor it is 32 spline, and you better snap it up fast or someone else will. The TH400/205 is 32 spline also.

All the good strong front yokes only bolt up to the 32 spline stuff. The 10 spline and 30 spline which are way more common only have a few comparitively weak yokes that will work.

ORD and NWF both offer fully rebuilt 205's with all the good parts which was the route i took a few years ago. I ran 1410 yokes front and rear, billet bearing retainers, 32 spline through and through, shift rails ground for twin stick, billet PTO covers...but at the time I had the cash but not the time. now I don't have enough of either.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:44 AM   #12
 
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For now, I'd be happy just to get the thing together. I have finally acquired a 89 700r4 K case core that I'll build with some upgrades to toughen it up with some good hard parts. I would like to have gone T350, but wanting to drop down to the 4.10 gear or the use the CUCV 4.56 14bolt I have, I figured I'd better go with the 700r4 and toughen it up. Although the lower gear will sure help take some strain off the 700r4 also. I time I started breaking 700r4's and making them stronger anyway. I know that parts are available now if you got deep pockets, and I don't, but there are still some upgrades that are reasonable and help dramatically. I also have the NP208 with a 700r4/T350 adapter already too, and I am finding out, for light to moderate wheeling the NP208 isn't so bad apparently. So. I'll just get the thing running and make appropriate changes as I tear it up. Thats what its all about. Push'em to their limits, break'em, rebuild'em a little better and go break'em again.
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Old 01-01-2011, 04:04 PM   #13
 
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Just notating a possible plan change on this one. This truck was originally a 6.2 Diesel with 700r4. Its already badged 6.2, has the dual battery trays, the instrument cluster is diesel with Glow Plug light, and Diesel Fuel guage, so this might be the vehicle I convert back to 6.2 Diesel. Still unsure. I really didn't want my 4x4's to be diesel. My only purpose to go Diesel if for mpg and the 4x4's, I am not going to be concerned about mpg. But, should it do well, it could possibly end up being the daily driver.
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Old 01-01-2011, 05:09 PM   #14
 
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It should be a solid truck when you get done....


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Old 01-01-2011, 05:48 PM   #15
 
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I know it will be solid. I just have to many differant plans and ideas for it. Some can't have it both ways. I also have a small title issue with that truck. Nothing that can't be fixed for about $65, but I was actually thinking of recabbing it with my other 85 2WD 3/4 ton truck, since that cab is fabulous and I have title to it but it has a bent frame from front and rear damage. Also have all the wiring harness for it etc. So I thought I might just take the cab registered as a 85 3/4 ton 2wd, and put it on this 85 K10 frame, and since I was going to convert it to 3/4 ton anyway, then I'd just be doing a conversion of the 85 C20 to 85 K20. And that may be exactly what I do. All I'd have to do is cut the hump out of the K10 cab, which I will bolt it back in the other cab. I love removeable center humps. But, then I'll keep the Instrument cluster and wiring harnesses out of the 85 K10 cab since I can use that in another truck that I might run a 6.2 in. I think I'd rather just have a half ton 2wd with the 6.2 for an mpg truck. Nothing fast, not hauling heavy loads. Just an around town vehicle that won't cost me a fortune to drive. I could go get another ricer, but I prefer just to put those funds into my many squarebody projects. To many trucks, to many options !!! Plans are subject to change.
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