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Old 05-12-2017, 11:37 PM   #76
 
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NP208 VSS.....lol I have a hard time finding it.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/sh...?t=9759&page=2



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Old 05-13-2017, 12:16 AM   #77
 
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All you fuggers with your damn LS swaps. You guys are starting to take over the forum.



Ahhh fugg it. Go ahead. I'm just be jealous !!!


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Old 05-13-2017, 10:03 AM   #78
 
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lol


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Old 05-13-2017, 12:32 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Camar068 View Post
NP208 VSS.....lol I have a hard time finding it.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/sh...?t=9759&page=2
I'm so glad to know this can be done I looked at the adapter and then at the kit advance adapters and said there has to be a cheaper way!
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:55 PM   #80
 
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Originally Posted by jchevy33 View Post
Yes everything is still working great a year and a half later ! Im runnin a 4L60e and the original '87 NP208. I used a speed sensor out of a 99-06 4x4 silverado transfer case , drilled and mounted it in the adapter at the correct location, and used a Dewalt 4 inch grinder wheel retainer nut to hold it in place believe it or not lol. I did put a little JB weld on it just for extra insurance, but it worked.Just gotta find something or make something work lol.

I know theres better ways of doin it but this worked for me, you can get a NP241 tailhousing/speed sensor and tone ring to work on a NP208 ive heard, but theyre hard to find so i made my own.

I had a 40 tooth reluctor wheel layin around from a 2wd 4L60e that pressed right onto my 4x4 shaft and everything worked great. Also be sure to grab a 6 bolt 4l60e adapter for the NP208 from a 99+ chevy truck. I grabbed one from local junkyard.

Good luck on your swap ask any questions you want ! I look forward to seein some pix of your swap
Was your shaft beveled in that location? I've got the reluctor wheel and sensor, but the wheel won't go past the bevel on the output shaft. I haven't tried pressing it. I'll go take some measurements. I thought I'd saved the post with drilling location, part #'s, etc. I'll post up pics when I get a chance.


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Old 05-13-2017, 07:05 PM   #81
 
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The perfect spot is between the bevel and the spline.
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Old 05-13-2017, 07:12 PM   #82
 
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Almost looks like theres a metal sleeve in between the reluctor and the shaft....then jb welded.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:41 PM   #83
 
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measured, measured and measured again. I've got 0.086 difference between shaft OD and reluctor ID.

I ordered a brass bearing sleeve that I will split in half. Put it in place and use a collar clamp to hold it together, use another clamped on the shaft as a stop. Then I'll attempt to press the reluctor wheel on it. Probably be a good idea to heat the wheel up to help press it on there. If I do it right, it shouldn't slip or move on the shaft.

If this works, I'll have $20 + shipping from McMaster-Carr and $6 for the reluctor wheel.

Wish I could afford a lathe.....be done with this part already lol.


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Old 05-19-2017, 03:45 PM   #84
 
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little update while the bed bolts are soaked with PB Blaster. Luckily I bought 2 of the bearings for the vss. The first bearing was too thick. I need to grind them down, split in half to put around shaft, then size length wise. I couldn't do the below due to me cutting them in half already.

Since I don't have a lathe, I put it on a nut/bolt with washers. Chucked it in the drill and gripped it with sandpaper. Very hot! Ended up going with the welding gloves for short periods. Only took about 20 minutes (mainly due to figuring out how much I was taking off before my hand got too hot). Due to using my hand, it sanded it down cone shaped (thicker OD at one end).

This is actually perfect. It gives me a ramp to press the reluctor wheel on. I made measurements of the original OD and both ends of the sanded product. I can use this info if I didn't go down far enough and have to buy more bearings to get it just right. I'll throw some JB weld or similar on it, but I didn't want to rely on it.

The bearings are $2.50 each plus shipping.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:15 PM   #85
 
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back to the drawing board. Way too thick. Pulled out some copper pipe and it pressed on well......didn't bite enough tho. I'm sure it's because the copper is so soft that it formed exactly to the reluctor.

LOL we are closer tho.


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Old 05-19-2017, 06:57 PM   #86
 
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Originally Posted by Camar068 View Post
The perfect spot is between the bevel and the spline.
Originally Posted by Camar068 View Post
Almost looks like theres a metal sleeve in between the reluctor and the shaft....then jb welded.
That's cool, so you don't even swap out the output shaft to a VSS shaft? I've not dealt with alot of VSS stuff. I've thought it was true you can pull off a reluctor wheel and go back to driven speedo gear but you can't go from driven gear shaft to VSS shaft. Until I seen this.


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Old 05-19-2017, 08:26 PM   #87
 
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lol where there's a will......there's a way.


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Old 05-23-2017, 08:14 PM   #88
 
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disassembled intake to clean n paint. Possibly put the larger injectors on it when I assemble.


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Old 05-24-2017, 08:54 PM   #89
 
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while cleaning the intake I looked into the ports expecting seams etc from the manufacturing process. I don't see any at all....woohoo! Thought I might take a few hours with the dremel and clean it up.....don't need to.


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Old 05-24-2017, 11:05 PM   #90
 
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Originally Posted by Camar068 View Post
while cleaning the intake I looked into the ports expecting seams etc from the manufacturing process. I don't see any at all....woohoo! Thought I might take a few hours with the dremel and clean it up.....don't need to.
Looks like you're all good to go! Thinking about port matching mine too.


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