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HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 01:25 PM
********** http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8298&stc=1&d=1351677104 ********** UNDER CONSTRUCTION ********** http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8298&stc=1&d=1351677104 **********

I can let the cat out of the bag now and not jinx it. I bought another SB today. Its an 85 GMC K1500 with a low mileage crate motor and 700r4. The 700r4 only has 1, 2 and Reverse. No 3 or 4th. Cuz the guys didn't know to hook up the TV Cable and burnt it up. RPO Codes show to have 3.73 Gears. Power Lock, Windows, Tilt Cruise and a junk seat out of 75 and carpet that got to go. Rust is just starting the cab corners and behnind the wheel openins on the bed. Very easy to kill and fix right now. Gonna be a great truck. Only a couple hail dings, and a bit of a wrinkled front bumper. Got clear title, and tag is out as of Sep 09. The guy says he doesn't think the crate motor has 10K miles on it that is was just a back up truck and bad weather truck for his company so the truck sat in the shop most of the time for the last 8 years or so until the trans quit working after they installed a new Eddy intake and didn't hook up the TV cable linkage and shortly thereafter fried the trans, so it has sat since Aug of 09 now. Get this, the guy went and bought a brand new battery just to start it up and it fires right up and has lots of power and feels strong for the 1st and 2nd gear ride I took in it. Needs some power windows switches and some steering column work, otherwise solid as hell truck. Would you beleive I got it for $500??? Sure did. He was asking $600, but with tag out, steering column loose and wires hanging out door panels for switches, I asked if he'd take $500. He quickly said, fair enough, I need it gone.
Here are a few pics. Crappy, but I'll get more later. Gotta run to pops house and get my other 85 K10 towed home today.

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 01:26 PM
Oh yeah, and AC has already been converted to R134.

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 01:33 PM
BTW I999, it does have manual locking Warn hubs already too. Remeber we thought it looked like auto locking in the small pics? Nope. They have been changed out already. Also Left Tank doesn't work, switch is bad. Big Whooptie. Just nickel and dime repairs along with the trans I'll build and thats all thats wrong with it.

Irishman999
11-28-2010, 04:44 PM
I cant believe you picked that up for 500 bucks. Im very jealous of the crate motor and your body panels with paint on them.

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 08:42 PM
Of all the things you were jealous of, I figured it woudl have been the push bar. You wanted JDogg's but his wouldn't fit your bumper. This one here would. It also have the brackets for Auxilliary light. Gonna be a nice 4x4 truck. I just got home from my dads too. I have my Chevy 85 K10 here at the house now too.

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 08:45 PM
I don't know what kind of mufflers they put on with those headers, but it damn sure sounds good. The exhaust is all new too. It dumps just in front of the rear axle with turn downs.

Irishman999
11-28-2010, 09:04 PM
I don't know what kind of mufflers they put on with those headers, but it damn sure sounds good. The exhaust is all new too. It dumps just in front of the rear axle with turn downs.

Damn dude it even came with new exhaust?!? How did you end up bring it home?

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 10:06 PM
Damn dude it even came with new exhaust?!? How did you end up bring it home?

Yep, the headers, exhaust and Eddy intake were only 2 weeks old when the trans lost 3 and 4th gear. I figured whats up with the trans. It is burnt up in the 3-4 clutch pack. WHY? Cuz when they did the Eddy intake swap, they didn't hook up the TV Cable. A 700r4 MUST HAVE the TV cable hooked up to increase pump pressure or it will burn up the 3-4 clutch pack. He only put about 300 miles on it after the Eddy intake, headers and exhaust. Thats all it takes to fry the trans. So yep, lots of new stuff on this truck. The battery is a day old. Stamped 11/10 with a 3 year warranty. He bought that last night.
I towed it home with my tow bar since my trailer was loaded. Glad I decided too, 3.73 gears are low to be driving 25 miles in 2nd gear. I drove it around the block a couple times though. Motor is good, needs a little carb work and choke adjustment. I'm gonna like it for sure. Very pleased with the purchase. I broke my recored though. I never paid of $200 for a SB, now I paid $500.

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 10:25 PM
Here is the RPO Codes. I like having the Engine Oil cooler too. I was not aware 4x4 came OEM with Rally Wheels. They don't look bad but are rusty. Wouldn't it be cool if I could get them Chromed with that Spectra product and just keep the factory steel rally's. My other 85 Chevy K 10 has aluminum wheels. Not such a good idea for a 4x4. You out in the field and hit a rock, you crack and break aluminum wheel, a steel wheel will just bend but not leave you stranded in most cases. So, for a 4x4 I prefer steel wheels.

Mr Clean
11-28-2010, 10:40 PM
I guy would of had to pay me a little something extra, because of the OSU plate on the front.:laughing1: What a great buy, does the transfer case work, or have you not found out yet? What is a TV cable?

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 10:56 PM
Nah, I done made fun of him for the OSU plate. Told him, that's the first order of biz to remove that. The transfer case seems to work fine now that I got it idled down cuz of choke sticking. I drove it around the block and played with 4hi, and 4 low. No grinding or screeching and seem to be pulling in the front too.
The TV cable is the Throttle Valve cable that goes to the carb linkage. Many peolpe refer to it as a kick down cable. But on a 700r4 it does much more than just kick down. It sends back to the trans and tells the trans, we are going full throttle, or half throttle, whatever, and adjust the fluid pressure accordingly to the paticular clutch packs being used. So more throttle = more fluid pressure. So if you are cruising in 3 or 4 at say 1/4 or half throttle, but the cable is not hooked up to tell the trans to increase fluid pressure. The pistons are not compressing the clutch packs tight enough, and they slip without you even knowing it, creating heat and burning it up. It doesn't take long either.

belowaveragecustoms
11-28-2010, 10:59 PM
truck looks good man, looks like you got a hell of a deal. congrats

HotRodPC
11-28-2010, 11:10 PM
truck looks good man, looks like you got a hell of a deal. congrats

Thanks bac, Yeah, I am thinking its a hell of a deal. I am sure the motor alone is worth the $500. Very few dings, very little rust. The interior has had some bad mods done to it, but nothing I can't change for cheap. Then rebuild the trans, and it should be a daily driver.

RetroC10Sport
11-28-2010, 11:26 PM
He shoots...

He scores!!!

Old77
11-28-2010, 11:44 PM
Nice score!!

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 12:03 AM
Here is the RPO Codes. I like having the Engine Oil cooler too. I was not aware 4x4 came OEM with Rally Wheels. They don't look bad but are rusty. Wouldn't it be cool if I could get them Chromed with that Spectra product and just keep the factory steel rally's. My other 85 Chevy K 10 has aluminum wheels. Not such a good idea for a 4x4. You out in the field and hit a rock, you crack and break aluminum wheel, a steel wheel will just bend but not leave you stranded in most cases. So, for a 4x4 I prefer steel wheels.

My dad found an awesome rattle can paint they sell at wal-mart that gives a "hammered" look to the grey and looks absolutely perfect on rally wheels. I also noticed your truck has the 4 shocks in front, very neat.

burbdood
11-29-2010, 12:18 AM
Naw, IMO the original Argent Silver paint looks good on a Rally wheel. Get the 4x4 center caps and the beauty rings, and you'll be pimpin'! :hat:


Nice score BTW.

RetroC10Sport
11-29-2010, 12:22 AM
There was a set of 4x4 centers on the local CL free stuff...........If they weren't in south Austin, i would have grabbed them.

HotRodPC
11-29-2010, 02:23 AM
Thanks Guys. The most amazing thing about this deal was, I wasn't even looking for it. My bro has been looking for a used car in a desperate situation. I tripped across this ad which said nothing. GMC Sierra 4x4 Needs Transmission $600. That was it. No Pics, No phone #. I told my bro about it. No, I need something that runs now. I said DUHHH, HELLLOOO? I can rebuild the trans in a day, and you are working with a $1500 budget. Buy then damn truck for $600, $300 for rebuild parts including converter and you gotta daily driver 4x4 overnight. Nahhhhh..... To hell with you then, I'll spend my house payment money on that deal and buy it NOW, then I'll sell some of my other project parts I don't need and have the house payment paid by the 10th of December and avoid any late fees, so that's what I did. Couldn't afford it, but couldn't afforn not to get it either. Then the guy took $500 and put a brand spakin new battery in the thing for $40 that hadn't even beein in it for 12hrs yet. Its a NeverStart from Wal-Mart, but WTH 3 yr warranty. Sometimes, you just gotta make deals happen. I had no intent of buying another truck. It just worked out when I needed it to.

BTW, Great Ideas on the wheels. They are a bit rusty looking. I'll look a little closer and see about possibly sandblasting them then primer and paint. Sounds like a cheap way out to me and have them look decent. I have seen some look good in the silver. I'll see what I got after cleaning up or blasting, cuz if they are pitted or in rough shape, that hammered paint I999 is reffering to, does hide alot of flaws and it looks good. I painted a metal desk with it once and it turned out awesome with some clear over it.

Old77
11-29-2010, 11:09 AM
I'm not sure I'd feel safe using my house payment to buy it because I wouldn't feel confident in being able to recoup my money back soon enough to not be late on the payment but it looks like you made the deal happen and now your brother can kick himself for not jumping on it! :)

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 11:29 AM
Sand blasting?!?! Personally I would use a wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder before going through the bull shit of setting up an area to sand blast, buying the sand and running an air compressor so much.

Your spot on about that silverish gray paint, as long as you got all the chips and rust sanded out your wheels will look as good or better as the ones that get restored professionally. Also before you spray the paint wash them really good with dish soap to get any oils off the surface.

Did your truck come with all the beauty rings and the center caps?

HotRodPC
11-29-2010, 11:34 AM
I have no doubt the house payment will be made. If I can't sell enough parts, I gotta pecker that hangs to my knees, and I'll hit up a Weight Watchers convention and look for those fat rich girls that need some action for some cash.
What my brother ended up with, is a sickening story, and I am not even kidding. He borrowed another $1000 and bought a 79 ElCamino for $2500. I was working the day he went and looked at it, so I was unable to go with him as I did on the first 8 vehicles he looked at I found everything from rusted floor pans under carpet to rod knocks in motors to VIN #'s that had been swapped on the dash, and said NO to everyone of them. So he did this deal on his own. The most expensive car he looked at, and as big or bigger piece of shit than everything I looked at with him.

Old77
11-29-2010, 11:51 AM
Hangs to your knees, uh? :hmm:

:lol:

nxtlevl
11-29-2010, 12:08 PM
Awesome score------:High 5:....If by chance you don't want the headlight bezels/grille, I've got a phantom grille that would look great on there..hint-hint...:roflbow:

I've found a couple of squarebodies around here for $4-$600 and have been contemplating buying one for a parts truck...One of them has a rust-free stepside bed.......

HotRodPC
11-29-2010, 12:11 PM
Sand blasting?!?! Personally I would use a wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder before going through the bull shit of setting up an area to sand blast, buying the sand and running an air compressor so much.

Your spot on about that silverish gray paint, as long as you got all the chips and rust sanded out your wheels will look as good or better as the ones that get restored professionally. Also before you spray the paint wash them really good with dish soap to get any oils off the surface.

Did your truck come with all the beauty rings and the center caps?

I'm not to worried about sand blasting. My dad has an area of his property that is sandy. We have sandblasted there before. Simply scoop up the sand, strain it into the hopper and leave it lay where it falls on the ground. No mess, No cost. I just one of those shoulder strap carry units. Nothing fancy, but effective. But, I may do the wheels here at the house, so the wire wheel idea might get used.
Only have 1 center cap, and missing 1 beauty ring. Looks like the guy had started working on them already. The 2 on the passenger side are gloss white and don't look to bad, and the 2 on the left are Silver and surface rust spots. They don't look near as bad as I thought after I went out there and looked them over closer and paid attention to them as to what was there and what was missing.

Hangs to your knees, uh? :hmm:

:lol:

I might have exaggerated just a bit, but you get the point. :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 12:31 PM
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=94

All the way at the bottom. I want to order some of these and paint my wheels at the same time. I figure nice looking wheels might distract the eye from my surface rust.

HotRodPC
11-29-2010, 02:16 PM
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=94

All the way at the bottom. I want to order some of these and paint my wheels at the same time. I figure nice looking wheels might distract the eye from my surface rust.

One of these days you just need to break down, get you some sand paper and even some rattle can primer will kill that surface rust. I did it to the hood of my Blue truck. Wet sanding the surface rust off, then hit it .99 cent red oxide primer from I think Wally World, or Lowe's. The surface rust hasn't come back at all. But I was down to shiney stuff on the sanding.

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 02:51 PM
Yea its pretty bad, I really need to do a redneck paint job on it until I could get a good workspace of my own to do it right. When I finally do get to paint her, she will turn out awesome since there is minimal body work required, really excited for that!

burbdood
11-29-2010, 03:02 PM
Awesome score------:High 5:....If by chance you don't want the headlight bezels/grille, I've got a phantom grille that would look great on there..hint-hint.



And if y chance you do decide to get that fabulous phantom grille that would look great on there and you don't know what to do with the original one, that matches mine perfectly BTW, I'd be willing to take it off your hands for ya!

Damn deer smashed my grille that was in perfect shape. :mad3:

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 03:14 PM
and if y chance you do decide to get that fabulous phantom grille that would look great on there and you don't know what to do with the original one, that matches mine perfectly btw, i'd be willing to take it off your hands for ya!

Damn deer smashed my grille that was in perfect shape. :mad3:

fuckin deer!

Old77
11-29-2010, 04:34 PM
Dude! I hate deer for this reason!!! I have had 3 deer run out in front of me or run into the side of me over the years! 2 of those came within a 6 week timeframe. Leaves a ba taste in your mouth :)

Irishman999
11-29-2010, 04:44 PM
I wish I got pictures of the Mustang after the deer decided to destroy the drivers side. 3k in damages. My mom just lost her Cherokee to a Elk.

nxtlevl
11-29-2010, 05:02 PM
Dude! I hate deer for this reason!!! Leaves a bad taste in your mouth :)


The last deer that hit one of my vehicles actually left a great taste in my mouth....Free Steak FTW--------------:roflbow:

Old77
11-29-2010, 05:11 PM
Haha!! About three weeks ago me and the family were leaving my parents house to head back home. We just got on the highway (4 lane) and were in the opposite lane of a new caddy of some sort. A deer ran across, hit the caddy in the driver door and flew up in the air. If I hadn't swerved out of the way the frigging thing woulda landed on the roof or the rear deck lid. It was the craziest deer hit I've ever seen!

burbdood
11-29-2010, 10:22 PM
fuckin deer!



Oh yeah. I only had the Suburban for 2 weeks at the time and I took it out to a lake about 45 minutes S. of here for a shake down run since the wife and I were going on a road trip a couple of weeks later.

Anywhoo, I was driving along when all of a sudden my very pregnant wife yells out, "oh shit!". I smacked Bambi going about 50mph and sent her flying. The only damage done was a hole in my grill the size of my fist. That's when I fell in love with "Fillmore".

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 12:39 AM
And if y chance you do decide to get that fabulous phantom grille that would look great on there and you don't know what to do with the original one, that matches mine perfectly BTW, I'd be willing to take it off your hands for ya!

Damn deer smashed my grille that was in perfect shape. :mad3:

I'm not sure what I am going to do about a grill yet. I might just keep it stock, dunno yet. First things First, rebuild the 700r4 and get it road worthy. If it makes you feel any better, the headlight bezels or at least the one the passenger side for sure needs replaced. But the grill itself is just perf,... uh wait a minute, uh that grill sucks too, you wouldn't want it. LMAO :hidesbehindsofa:

burbdood
11-30-2010, 02:22 AM
I'm not sure what I am going to do about a grill yet. I might just keep it stock, dunno yet. First things First, rebuild the 700r4 and get it road worthy. If it makes you feel any better, the headlight bezels or at least the one the passenger side for sure needs replaced. But the grill itself is just perf,... uh wait a minute, uh that grill sucks too, you wouldn't want it. LMAO :hidesbehindsofa:



Uh huh, I see how you is.......kinda rude that you wanna keep your stuff and not help a fella out!!

























J/K mang, it's all good.

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 02:41 AM
Uh huh, I see how you is.......kinda rude that you wanna keep your stuff and not help a fella out!!

























J/K mang, it's all good.


hahaha, I'm all about helping out w parts IF I don't need them and not going to get any return on, or worth listing etc. If fact, that reminds me, Iman, are you wanting these Wee O Five exhaust manifolds I got? If you haven't hacked up your exhaust to bad, you might save some cash and running around if these are shipped to your door. I can't remember what I quoted your for shipping now.

Irishman999
11-30-2010, 03:22 AM
hahaha, I'm all about helping out w parts IF I don't need them and not going to get any return on, or worth listing etc. If fact, that reminds me, Iman, are you wanting these Wee O Five exhaust manifolds I got? If you haven't hacked up your exhaust to bad, you might save some cash and running around if these are shipped to your door. I can't remember what I quoted your for shipping now.

I think it was around 20 bucks to ship them, I tried like hell to find a set locally and ended up just wasting money driving around. I am thinking about waiting until my wife gets paid and strolling down to the Summitracing store and getting some new headers for 100 bucks.

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 03:36 AM
I think it was around 20 bucks to ship them, I tried like hell to find a set locally and ended up just wasting money driving around. I am thinking about waiting until my wife gets paid and strolling down to the Summitracing store and getting some new headers for 100 bucks.

10-4 . I started that thread on the rust removal I was telling you about.

Old77
11-30-2010, 09:22 AM
<off topic>your "10-4" reminded me of something funny....
At a previous job there was a little asian kid that worked there. He was having an email convo with one of my other co-workers and the co-worker responded with just a "10-4" in the email. This kid turned and whispered, "What 10 minus 4???". I responded "6, why??" with a puzzled look on my face!! Then he let me in on why he was puzzled and I just started laughing. He never lived that down!! He needs to watch some Smokey and the Bandit or something :D

:roflbow:
</off topic>

Continue on talking about the new project now...

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 11:12 AM
<off topic>your "10-4" reminded me of something funny....
At a previous job there was a little asian kid that worked there. He was having an email convo with one of my other co-workers and the co-worker responded with just a "10-4" in the email. This kid turned and whispered, "What 10 minus 4???". I responded "6, why??" with a puzzled look on my face!! Then he let me in on why he was puzzled and I just started laughing. He never lived that down!! He needs to watch some Smokey and the Bandit or something :D

:roflbow:
</off topic>

Continue on talking about the new project now...

Funkin Funny Shiot !!! :signs75:

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 01:39 PM
Man it sucks !!! Friggin cold outside and I wanted to work on this thing today. Not gonna happen. My ailments don't let me work on much in cold weather. I sure hope I don't have to wait til spring to get this trans rebuilt.

Old77
11-30-2010, 01:43 PM
No garage to move it into? I'd take the tranny out and rebuild it in the kitchen if I had to :D

greencountry05
11-30-2010, 02:08 PM
That way if you're working on it in the kitchen you are never far from food, beer, and tv!

greencountry05
11-30-2010, 02:09 PM
Dude! I hate deer for this reason!!! I have had 3 deer run out in front of me or run into the side of me over the years! 2 of those came within a 6 week timeframe. Leaves a ba taste in your mouth :)

I actually find deer very tasty :crazy:

Old77
11-30-2010, 02:14 PM
haha!! I didn't mean that literally! :D I love me some deer jerky... :)

burbdood
11-30-2010, 02:57 PM
haha!! I didn't mean that literally! :D I love me some deer jerky... :)


Or a nice fat deer roast slow cooked for 3-4 hours.......some long grain wild rice and broccoli to go with it..........:drool:

Old77
11-30-2010, 03:20 PM
My brother just got a deer and made some deer bologna. I have never heard of that before but look forward to trying some! :D

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 08:00 PM
I have not problems building transmissions in the kitchen. I have rebuilt one on the kitchen coutner before, and rebuilt a chain saw on the stove once. But getting the trans out is a differant story. The front door isn't wide enough to get the truck in the living room.

HotRodPC
11-30-2010, 08:25 PM
I think its time I start getting rid of crap. I have a 2 car garage and no room to pull a truck in to work on it? Something is wrong with that. And its one of those garages with 2 seperate roll up doors, one for each side. Need to get all the crap on one side and clean the other side for bringing the truck in, or I'll have to wait for spring to work on it. I took the truck for a drive today and realized it has a gas leak on top of the tank, so obviouvsly some fuel lines need repalced too. No telling what this kid did to it, but he said only the right tank works, so I want that fixed anyway.

greencountry05
11-30-2010, 09:29 PM
Yard sale! Yard sale! Yard sale!

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 01:25 AM
I guess those wheels on this truck aren't really in as bad a shape as I thought. I think I'll sand them down, primer with rattle can red oxide primer, then a couple coats of rattle can Rustoleum paint. Both rear center caps are there, so I'll need 2 for the front and 1 beauty ring is missing. I think I've decided to go ahead and leave this truck pretty much stock other than the some major trans upgrades for strength, maybe a mild RV cam in the motor and that be about it. Keeping the same 10 bolts that are 3.73 gears, and add a lock rite locker in the rear end and probably a limited slip in the front. Just leave it pretty much a daily driver. I'll save the serious mods like the 14b Full Float Rear axles and Dana 44 or 60 for the 85K10 project.

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 01:31 AM
Oh, and here is a pic of that OEM factory front quad shock set up. The shocks look older than dirt, but looks like an effective set up. One shock stays low, one shock goes up higher. I never even knew SB's had a factory OEM quad shock option, but I sure think I'll like it to help smooth out any rough highway tire bounce. Its still got the OEM factory 31x10.50x15 size tires too, but if I go up in size like to 35x12.50x15, those quad shocks will help alot. I can't imagine I'd go any bigger than that on this truck. I'll save the aggresive lift stuff for the 85K10 project and stronger axles.

Irishman999
12-05-2010, 02:32 AM
It would be really neat if you threw those wheels in your electro cleaning drum, one at a time. I want to see what they look like after.

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 02:46 AM
They would just be clean of rust, paint and debris. But would be a dull black looking color and need some form of primer or paint right away, like within minutes, or the rust process will start almost immediatly all over again.

Old77
12-05-2010, 12:41 PM
You should just have a garage sale one weekend and advertise on the forums and CL!! :D

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 01:49 PM
You should just have a garage sale one weekend and advertise on the forums and CL!! :D

Ahhh man, you're like the 3rd person to say that now. You guys are just jealous and wanting me to get rid of all my treasures and prize possesions. LMAO, I didn't even finish posting my man cave pics cuz I got told about all my junk and have a sale. :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow: But it sure seems, everytime someone comes around, they are like a kid in a candy store with all my JUNK. I would like to get my projects consolidated though and sell of some of what I don't need. I could use that money to build my project, not to mention, having the space back would be great too. I'm still trying to decide what I am going to do with this 81 GMC 1/2 ton 2wd I have. Still a complete truck with a 305/T350. I think I need the front clip off it, and hoping the wiring harness is still good. Past that, I think I need to sell the rest of the parts. At one time, I had 9 Squares, parted out and scrapped 3 of them, got down to 6, then duh, I just bougtht the 85 K1500 so I am back on the up with 7 now. I might need to seek some counseling. :roflbow:

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 02:14 PM
Although, most of what is taking up space at the house 2 car garage is my computer parts. They are old and antiquated now. I think its time for the dump. I probably have enough parts to build 10 computers out there, but old Pentium 1 age. SCRAP. And I don't need them, I have 5 working computers in the house counting my laptop. Sadly what takes up space too, is all my buds bring me their computer to fix or repair. Which I go as far as I can in repairing them until it comes time for needing money to buy the parts, then its, 'I'll get you some cash..." and it doesn't happen. So as of right now, I have 4 computers sitting in my way in repair stages waiting for buds to get me cash to buy parts. One of them is ready to ship to my bud out of state, but he is supposed to be getting me a Fed Ex # to ship it off.
Then, I used to buy business grade laser printers by the 53 foot semi truck load and refurb them and sell. But shipping costs and as cheap as printers are now... Time to to take about 6 pallets of printers to the dump. I know I have to much junk around, but I'd be lying if I said it wasn't worth it. I have made some serious cash in the past with some of my "junk".

Old77
12-05-2010, 04:39 PM
I think you should just start giving the GMSB guys your "junk" on a first come, first served bases cuz you like us so much! Good idea, eh? :hmm:

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 06:53 PM
I keep trying to give Iman those 305 exhaust manifolds. But, I don't think he's sure what he's doing yet, as far using manifolds or headers yet. The rest of it, I think I'll hold onto until I see some of the green paper stuff.

Irishman999
12-05-2010, 08:25 PM
I keep trying to give Iman those 305 exhaust manifolds. But, I don't think he's sure what he's doing yet, as far using manifolds or headers yet. The rest of it, I think I'll hold onto until I see some of the green paper stuff.

Yea dude im just going to go with manifolds. If you dont mind shipping them over here! Just let me know.

HotRodPC
12-05-2010, 09:04 PM
Yea dude im just going to go with manifolds. If you dont mind shipping them over here! Just let me know.I posted a pic of those manifolds on your corvette manifolds thread so you can make sure they are the right one, and will dump in the right place to match your current exhaust.

HotRodPC
12-08-2010, 04:05 AM
OK, so here are some pics of the trans I had acquired for my 85 Chevy K10 build. But now that I have the 85 GMC K1500 as a complete truck needing a trans rebuild. Change of plans. This 89 4x4 K Case 700r4 is now going to be built for the GMC K1500. Not starting it just yet because of another current trans build in progress for a bud awaiting parts to be delivered, but I did at least bring the case to the house from the man cave tonight. When the time comes, should I do the 700r4 Build thread here in this thread, or should I do a seperate write-up thread for the 700r4 build?

FYI For anyone interested. Notice I am using an 89 Trans Core. Also notice the big K on the side of the bellhousing. For anyone looking for one of the better 700r4 Transmissions. Try to find a 88-92 Unit. There were improvement made to 700r4's every single year from the date of first production. 87 units are OK units too, but the 88-92 units are the more desireable units if you need a hi po build. They are stronger. The K case is commonly found in 4x4 vehicles, but is also available in some 2WD models too. The K case is not as necessary as the 88-92 unit is. So if you find an 85 K unit, and a 88 unit without the K, then the 88 unit, is your trans of choice. All the K really means is a beefier or more meat around the bellhousing bolt bosses for added strength in the area. You will also notice the 4x4 case does not have a tailshaft housing and also uses a shorter output shaft. This is because the exposed output shaft is what is lined with the splines in the Transfer case, and then the transfer case bolts onto the transmission in place of the tailshaft housing. Also notice the 4x4 trans does not have any accomodation for a speedo. This is becuase the speedo is handeled in the transfer case.

HotRodPC
12-08-2010, 04:29 AM
And here is a shot of the buds Turbo 400 I am building. He bought this trans core for $100. Its a passenger car 1970 transmission, so it does not have the threaded output shaft for bolt on truck yoke, but it does have the good drum for the much better sprag. He is putting the transmission in a 70 model half ton with a 454. He will have to get a T400 slip yoke for his driveshaft. This is one nasty trans. Not cuz it burned up or broke parts, beause the seller he bought it from had it sitting outside in the weahter and rain for several months. The transmission has some mud and water in it, even though he was led to beleive the trans had sat in the garage covered all these months and worked when pulled.

Irishman999
12-08-2010, 04:37 AM
Do a separate writeup!

HotRodPC
12-08-2010, 05:56 AM
Do a separate writeup!

I think that would be best too. I'm also going to being building an engine and Turbo 350 for my bro. So by the time I get done with these current projects. I should be able to have a write up thread on each of the SB transmissisons, The 400 is already done and there. Now the 700r4 and a Turbo 350.

Old77
12-08-2010, 07:09 AM
Definitely separate write up so that it's easier to understand and more concise! Either way, I'm looking forward to them:)

82chevy350
12-08-2010, 07:29 PM
yea cause i would like to learn

89Suburban
12-08-2010, 08:09 PM
You really know your shit hotrod, good stuff.

HotRodPC
12-08-2010, 11:35 PM
Thanks 89Sub. Not quite the expert, but just a little bit more than enough to only get in trouble. I can get in trouble and usually get myself out of it and that's about it.

HotRodPC
12-11-2010, 04:19 AM
Well gearheads. I think I have a change of plans. Not to bad, but nevertheless, changing plans. I wanted to build that 89 K case as pictured above for this project. My intent was to beef it up strong, and I still intend to do that but funds are to tight to buy all the upgrades I want to put into it. I am to anxious to get the truck running and get to drive it. I also noticed when ordering parts for another buds transmission, they had the basic rebuild kit for 87-92 700r4 on sale for $52. So I am going to set that 89 K case back on the shelf for a later build when the upgrade parts I want fit the budget. I have a 90 2WD core case also. So I intend to pull the 85 4x4 700r4 out of this truck. Pull the trans apart to get to the 4x4 output shaft. Then do a stock OEM rebuild on this 90 2WD core but put the 85 4x4 output shaft in it, so it will bolt up with the transfer case. Then I'll at least have the truck running and driveable. YIPPEE !!! So as of today, I ordered the parts and they have been shipped. Of course, I still have the buds Turbo 400 to build, and my bro is in need of a motor build too, so I am going to be loaning him one of my high mileage SBC long blocks to install in his car while he is gathering funds to rebuild his motor. Sadly, my own projects will come last as usual while I take care of everyone else first. But at least I have the parts on the way, and its forward progress on of my projects, as so many of them stand still awaiting funds or time. I was thinking why waste the time and partial funds on a stock built trans, but the trans I want to build will cost close to $500 in hard part upgrades and that can take awhile to come up with. This way I at least get to drive the truck, and when I do get the 89 K case built the way I want it, if I overdue and break it, then I have a working stock trans to fall back on. Or even use it in the 85 K10 project to get it running initially too. I think its a wise decision to do it this way for several reasons. I get the 85 K1500 running good, then I can tear down my current DD, the 84 C20, and I'll be using that truck to put together 2 other projects, for examle the 454/Turbo 400 is going into the 88 C20 Silverado Burb that I should have the Title 42 back from the state just about anytime now. Damn, another long winded, thinking outloud post. And these plans suject to change too. Thanks for listening to the boredom !!!
Your order has shipped. (Order#: 31535 placed on 12/10/2010)
350-000035012 35012 700R4 Transmission banner kit 1987-92.
1 $51.75 $51.75
350-000035920 35920 700R4 Transmission filter 1987-92
1 $4.88 $4.88

Irishman999
12-11-2010, 05:59 AM
I was wondering why you were looking into that 3/4 ton when you have one in such good shape and so close to being a runner.

HotRodPC
12-11-2010, 11:29 AM
Because this one is a 1/2 ton. The 3/4 tons have better rear axles and stronger srpings. And that truck was also a SM465 truck. I intend to leave this truck pretty much the way it is since it has 3.73 axles, which is a great middle of road gear ratio. But, the other K10, has wussy wagon 3.08 gears in the axles. I have all intention of converting that one to 3/4 ton with 14b FF rearend, 3/4 ton springs front and rear. All I have left to acquire for that truck to do that is an 8 lug D44 or 10bolt with 4.10 or 4.56 gears. Whichever one I find first, is what the gear ratio will be since I already both the 14b in both 4.10 and the CUCV 4.56 with locker.

HotRodPC
12-12-2010, 04:45 PM
I put some more gas in this thing today, worked on the choke a bit to get the idle down and took if for a drive for a few miles in the neighborhood since I don't have it tagged yet or insurance. Just wanted to confirm the T Case and all are good. The seller is right, trans only has 1 and 2nd. But it runs good for those 2 gears. Seems to have plenty of take off power. Locked in the hubs and tried 4H, I could feel the front end pulling a bit and turning a corner was different so that pretty told me the front axle and hubs are working OK. Put it in 4L and it crawls just fine. HOWEVER, maybe I don't know how to operate a NP208. But, when I stopped at stop sign and wanted to take it out of 4HI, or even 4LO, it would come out OK into N, but then would be grinding if I tried to put it in 2HI. So I was going to try to put the trans in Park, but I could tell the transshaft was spinning too and as I suspected, the trans didn't want to go into Park either without making a bunch of racket. So I shut the motor off, then put it in 2HI, then started it back and all was fine. So, am I doing something wrong, or is there possibly some kind of snychros in the Tcase that might be bad?? I've never worked with a NP208 before and don't know their charachteristics.

HotRodPC
12-25-2010, 04:57 AM
So I get under the truck to see if I can see the #'s on the trans that is in this truck. I know it has pressure taps, but just to make sure its not a favorable trans, or maybe not the OEM trans, I wanted the #'s. Never did get the #'s, but I noticed the cab mount bushings are in pretty rough shape and will need replaced very soon. I said I'd never do a body lift, but since I'll be right there and going thru the same motions.... I am thinking maybe replacing with a 2 inch body lift? Any such thing as a 1 inch body lift? What kind of lift bushing would I prefer? I hear poly is supposed to be good and durable, but I also hear they squeek real bad. I don't want a squeeker. I am a noise freak. Anything that don't sound right, I won't tolerate. What other problems might I have with a 1 or 2 body lift???

HotRodPC
01-11-2011, 03:17 PM
Sorry dudes. Not gonna be a 700r4 write up anytime soon. I thought I was gonna start my rebuild on my 89 700r4 K case core for the 85K1500. I bought it off CL for $100 with a NP241 transfer case married to it. The guy told me both worked fine, which I didn't care since I intended on rebuilding it anyway. Well, after pulling the pan, seeing the fluid, how clean it is, nothing in the pan whatsoever, not even normal wear type material. The magnet is still clean, I just decided I'm going to button this guy back up and run it as is. It won't beefed up like I want it, but I don't have the funds for all the beef parts yet anyway. I'll acquire another core and build it with the beef and leave this good stocker alone and take it easy on it. Its the 85K10 I want to be rough with anyway. I just want this 85K1500 running for right now. To cold to install it today though. Next warm day off, I think I am gonna attack it.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=678&d=1294776983
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=679&d=1294777008

Old77
01-11-2011, 03:21 PM
Well, that'd be a pleasant surprise! :D

HotRodPC
01-31-2011, 12:48 AM
OK, so now I am wanting to slim down and consilidate projects. Now that I have acquired this 85 K1500, I'm thnking it might be time to sell the 85 K10 project. I don't mind having 2 4x4 trucks, but I am thinking I really want a K5 Blazer in the future. This means, eventually, this 85K1500 project is likley to get converted to the 3/4 ton axles and springs. In the meantime though, which wheels do I want to keep??? Do I want the OEM Rally wheels that are on this truck now, or do I want to swap those to the 85K10 and keep the aluminum wheels that are on the 85K10??? Pro's and con's to both.

Alluminum 85K10 Wheels. I have all 4 in good shape.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1017&d=1296452894

Not all the Rally's look this nice. They all need cleaned, sanded and painted. Missing a beauty ring too, and all the caps need replaced.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1018&d=1296453071

Old77
01-31-2011, 12:54 AM
I'm a bigger fan of the rally wheel myself....

89Suburban
01-31-2011, 12:56 AM
I'm a bigger fan of the rally wheel myself....:handshake:

Old77
01-31-2011, 12:58 AM
:High 5:

HotRodPC
01-31-2011, 01:09 AM
They are much more common too, so I figure I can always come up with Rallys if I want them. But, I think steel wheels are best of a 4x4. You can bend a steel wheel and hammer it back to get you back home or off a trail. Aluminum is not as forgiving. In a bad situation, aluminum will flat break and you're done. But the aluminum doesn't bend or break as easy. As I said, pros and cons both ways. Also the dog pissing on the aluminum isn't likely to affect it as bad either. But the truck doesn't park in the back yard anyway. But other neighbor dogs might piss on my wheels.

Irishman999
01-31-2011, 01:12 AM
Those aluminum ones are rare compared to the normal steel rallys! I say get a buffer and some aluminum polish and clean up the aluminum wheels. You will probably come across another set of rally wheels for free or cheap.

HotRodPC
01-31-2011, 01:15 AM
Those aluminum ones are rare compared to the normal steel rallys! I say get a buffer and some aluminum polish and clean up the aluminum wheels. You will probably come across another set of rally wheels for free or cheap.

That's exactly what I was thinking. I see Rallys all over the place.

Irishman999
01-31-2011, 01:22 AM
That's exactly what I was thinking. I see Rallys all over the place.

I was typing that message at the same time you typed yours haha.

HotRodPC
02-08-2011, 11:06 PM
OK, OK, OK, here you're chance to laugh at my stupidity, and boy oh boy do I ever feel so damn stupid. I decided to go register this truck today to get it legal since we have 6-12 inches of snow on the way, and it about got impounded last snow storm. So, since I can drive it now, I decided I wanted the heater to work and it didn't get hot last time I drove it. So I assume the Tstat is stuck open or doesn't have one. I pull it out, it has one and its not stuck open. So I think WTH??? Simple as looking at the firewall and seeing there is a heater hose missing from the heater core. HELLOOOO !!! Duh !!! Shoulda been the first thing I checked. But since the guage wasn't moving I jumped on the wagon the Tstat was stuck open. So my temp guage apparently is not working or hooked up either. I'd say its safe to assume the heater core is probably bad or it wouldn't be disconnected. That will be coming out of the 81 GMC before it gets scrapped. Its got a good one in it. :idiot:

HotRodPC
02-08-2011, 11:13 PM
Another thing needing fixed before I drive it.... I was not real pleased with how fast the gas guage was moving with what little I drove this thing during the last snow storm. I was like damn, I was hoping this 350 would be a little better on gas than the 454 C20, but its not at all. Today I noticed a fuel leak behind the passenger side cab which is the only tank working right now. Its got a real good leak on top of the fuel tank. Not just a drip, its flat ass running down the side of the tank going both directions and dripping off the front and the rear of the tank. Pretty bad leak. So maybe it does get better mpg than the 454 after all. Gotta get it fixed before I drive it again and I think it'll be easier to fix with the bed off, and I'll also trouble shoot the dual tank valve and get the left tank working too, and replace all the rubber fuel lines. The gas drips fairly close to the hot exhaust pipes and I sure don't wanna farr !!! :flamingdevil: :flamingdevil: :flamingdevil:

Irishman999
02-08-2011, 11:30 PM
I just put a heater core in mine, its a real pain in the ass let me tell you. I wish I did a writeup now!

You dont strike me as a man who needs advice on this since im sure you have done a heater core before but a few things I wish I knew before starting mine.... for some reason a couple of the nuts on the firewall side were different sizes. someone mentioned you can get the bottom ones without taking out the inner fender but I did, the fender comes out surprisingly easy. I pulled my ash tray out but im not sure it has to come out, and its a REAL bitch to get back in.

I should have been taking pictures of the crazy ass heater box, honestly that was the hardest thing to get apart without breaking anything. there is a foam seal with screws under it. I could never actually get the two halves of it separated so I bent the one half just enough to pull the old one out and slide the new one in.

HotRodPC
02-08-2011, 11:44 PM
I just put a heater core in mine, its a real pain in the ass let me tell you. I wish I did a writeup now!

You dont strike me as a man who needs advice on this since im sure you have done a heater core before but a few things I wish I knew before starting mine.... for some reason a couple of the nuts on the firewall side were different sizes. someone mentioned you can get the bottom ones without taking out the inner fender but I did, the fender comes out surprisingly easy. I pulled my ash tray out but im not sure it has to come out, and its a REAL bitch to get back in.

I should have been taking pictures of the crazy ass heater box, honestly that was the hardest thing to get apart without breaking anything. there is a foam seal with screws under it. I could never actually get the two halves of it separated so I bent the one half just enough to pull the old one out and slide the new one in.

Yeah, you shoulda done a write up. I'd have put a little gold star by your name. I have done heater cores before. In different vehicles though and not a SB. I think I have a GM shop manual for an 80 around here somewhere, that should tell me what I need to take off and avoid to get to it. I never do like doing heater cores cuz I always hear of horror stories about them. I can't think of a reason someone would disconnect it, if it didn't leak, but I might just pressure test it to make sure. Sometimes its the ends of the hose leaking in the cab and people think its the heater core when its not. So before I go thru all that work, I'll want to make sure its bad.

Irishman999
02-09-2011, 12:26 AM
The ones in mine were cut too, I never even thought to check and see if the heater core held water.... my truck is from Phoenix, I could see my uncle saying he does not need a heater.

HotRodPC
02-09-2011, 01:08 AM
Not only that, one thing I notice, if you have an AC truck, and the AC isn't working, even with the slider on Cold, it still brings alot of heat in the vents, so I intend to get my AC fixed and if not, I'll disconnect my heater core for the summer.

Irishman999
02-09-2011, 02:27 AM
Not only that, one thing I notice, if you have an AC truck, and the AC isn't working, even with the slider on Cold, it still brings alot of heat in the vents, so I intend to get my AC fixed and if not, I'll disconnect my heater core for the summer.

Are you posetive about that? I think the one single mechanical linkage closes the mixer door, so when its on cold it blocks off the heater core. I could easily be wrong.

HotRodPC
02-09-2011, 02:43 AM
I would have though so too. This is in my DD C20. The heater works real good, and when I turn it to cold in the winter time like now, its damn cold, so I assume you are right, but still, I feel quite a bit a heat in the summer. Its not like the heater is on, but still, you can tell there is warm air coming thru the vents, with slider on Cold, Fan off, and all heat and air off.

crazy4offroad
02-09-2011, 08:47 AM
OK, so now I am wanting to slim down and consilidate projects. Now that I have acquired this 85 K1500, I'm thnking it might be time to sell the 85 K10 project. I don't mind having 2 4x4 trucks, but I am thinking I really want a K5 Blazer in the future. This means, eventually, this 85K1500 project is likley to get converted to the 3/4 ton axles and springs. In the meantime though, which wheels do I want to keep??? Do I want the OEM Rally wheels that are on this truck now, or do I want to swap those to the 85K10 and keep the aluminum wheels that are on the 85K10??? Pro's and con's to both.

Alluminum 85K10 Wheels. I have all 4 in good shape.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1017&d=1296452894

Not all the Rally's look this nice. They all need cleaned, sanded and painted. Missing a beauty ring too, and all the caps need replaced.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1018&d=1296453071

Sorry I'm late getting to this party. But if the truck will be converted to 3/4 ton down the road neither set of wheels will work! :lol: As for the other stuff, heater, gas leak, etc, it's all par for the course!

89Suburban
02-09-2011, 10:59 AM
Yeah, you shoulda done a write up. I'd have put a little gold star by your name. I have done heater cores before. In different vehicles though and not a SB. I think I have a GM shop manual for an 80 around here somewhere, that should tell me what I need to take off and avoid to get to it. I never do like doing heater cores cuz I always hear of horror stories about them. I can't think of a reason someone would disconnect it, if it didn't leak, but I might just pressure test it to make sure. Sometimes its the ends of the hose leaking in the cab and people think its the heater core when its not. So before I go thru all that work, I'll want to make sure its bad.Yah, just hook a garden hose to it and see if it leaks in the cab man. :High 5:

89Suburban
02-09-2011, 11:04 AM
That tank leak should be the seal around the pickup tube in the top of the tank, or you got a broken hose in that area, or a hole in the tank.

I had a small weep, like slight wetness on my fuel tank if I filled it to the tippy top, so I just kept it filled under 3/4 and it wasn't as bad. Finally when my fuel pump took a shit, my mechaninc showed me the old pickup tube assembly, there were pin holes rusted into the tube coming out for the charcoal canister line and gas would seep out if the fuel sloshed around hard enough. So I have that shit fixed now. Just a thought bro.

HotRodPC
02-09-2011, 01:29 PM
Sorry I'm late getting to this party. But if the truck will be converted to 3/4 ton down the road neither set of wheels will work! :lol: As for the other stuff, heater, gas leak, etc, it's all par for the course!

You're right about that, and I already thought of that too, but it might be awhile, and I do intend to acquire another 4x4, and hopefully a K5, so I do want to keep a set of the 6 luggers in my preferance. Even though I think 4x4's should keep steel wheels, I think I am leaning toward the more uncommon aluminum wheels. I have seen a couple 4x4 with them cleaned up and shined and they are fairly nice.

HotRodPC
02-09-2011, 01:36 PM
That tank leak should be the seal around the pickup tube in the top of the tank, or you got a broken hose in that area, or a hole in the tank.

I had a small weep, like slight wetness on my fuel tank if I filled it to the tippy top, so I just kept it filled under 3/4 and it wasn't as bad. Finally when my fuel pump took a shit, my mechaninc showed me the old pickup tube assembly, there were pin holes rusted into the tube coming out for the charcoal canister line and gas would seep out if the fuel sloshed around hard enough. So I have that shit fixed now. Just a thought bro.

I am hoping its easy as a hose and I think it is. It only leaks when the motor is running and its coming from the top of the tank no doubt. But there is only 1/4 tank of fuel, so I don't see how the tank seal could be bad. No problem though, I have spare tanks, seals, sending units, whatever it is. I just think it will be alot easier to take the bed off and trouble shoot the dual tanks too at the same time. You know me, I like to run my 91 octane in tank, and my aviation fuel in another so when the the ricer punks pull up...... :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

89Suburban
02-09-2011, 03:49 PM
I am hoping its easy as a hose and I think it is. It only leaks when the motor is running and its coming from the top of the tank no doubt. But there is only 1/4 tank of fuel, so I don't see how the tank seal could be bad. No problem though, I have spare tanks, seals, sending units, whatever it is. I just think it will be alot easier to take the bed off and trouble shoot the dual tanks too at the same time. You know me, I like to run my 91 octane in tank, and my aviation fuel in another so when the the ricer punks pull up...... :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:That is a good idea to pull the bed and knock out all of that at once. :handshake:

rice punks-------> :flipthebird:

HotRodPC
02-21-2011, 11:37 PM
As I said earlier today, Seems alot more like my birthday today. My transmisison parts showed up, my meds got refilled so I have tabs now, I sold that 10bolt rear end today at the shop for $100. But here is where it got even better. So as I explained, my crossmember on this 85K1500 is bent up to hell. I think I posted pics up there. So I figured I'd just use the good one off the 85K10 even though I'd have to replace it at some point, so it kinda sucked cuz I didn't want to waste time and cash looking for one in the Pull a Part, which would hard to find anyway. Most the 4x4's are gutted when you get there.
Member I said I bought my 89 700r4 and a NP241C tranfer case for $100 and then sold the NP241C for $100 so the good more preffered 700r4 K case I got was actully FREE. The guy I bought that from, went to a Trubo400 and NP205. I had forgotten all about it, but today while at the shop selling that rear end, I seen this crossmember on my bench of transmisisons. And said Oh hell, how did the crossmember out of the 85K10 get up here??? Then I remembered, when the guy sold me the 700r4 and NP241C, he also thru the crossmember in the back of my truck cuz it wouldn't fit with his T400 and NP205 upgrade. I thought big whoop, no biggie, I'll haul it for him but will never need it. Happy Birthday HotRod, you do have a crossmember already for the 85K1500 !!!! I love when shit like that happens !!!!

HotRodPC
07-03-2011, 11:23 PM
Now that I'm no longer working 14-18 hrs a day, maybe I'll have a bit of time to get back on this project.

Anyone got any idea which could be wrong with this truck? Power Steer Pump is full of fluid, belt is attatched and working fine. But, it acts like Power Steering without the belt on it. Steering is very very hard. Is it the pump has gone bad or is it the power steering gear box??? Seems when I first start it up, I have somewhat of power steering for about 3 minutes, but still not all that great. After the 3 minutes, that's it, its like steering a tank.

RetroC10Sport
07-03-2011, 11:56 PM
My Blazer was like that when I got it.

The pump shaft was broken.

HotRodPC
07-04-2011, 12:13 AM
I'm really hoping its the pump and not the gear box. At some point someday, it may have crossover steering, so I'll replace the box then, but I hate to get a new one now and not be using a year or so from now. And I think I have a spare PS pump where I don't have any spare 4wd steer gear boxes.

f1shman
07-04-2011, 12:16 AM
Check the lines over to make sure they aren't pinched. The rubber portion of the hoses should still be somewhat flexible. Check the p/s belt for tension and wear also. While your head is in that area, make sure to check your rag joint out too. Better safe than sorry if you are putting a lot of effort through the steering shaft.

If all the above looks okay, I would bet on a weak pump. :anitoof:

HotRodPC
07-04-2011, 12:26 AM
Yeah, I checked all that, and all looks good. That's why I was amazed I was having a problem. Fluid level is good, and fluid is clean. Hoses look good, no kinks, routed properly etc. No leaks from the gear box, no obvious leaks from the pump. Yeah, checking the rag joint is a good idea. I'd imagine its OK though. the steering is still nice and tight, and goes straight down the road. Just hard to make sharp turns and U turns. And its even noticeably stiff and hard on normal turns too. I was thinking pump too, but wasn't sure of how to diagnose a gear box. I've only known gear boxes to be replaced when they leaked badly or had excessive slop.

crazy4offroad
07-04-2011, 09:20 AM
If your adjuster on the steering box has never been messed with I would rule that out. Usually the steering will get loose and you can tighten it back up a little by tightening the adjuster screw and jamb nut on top of the box. Hard to tell what someone else may have done though, and it's hard to tell what can happen to one after it has sat a while. I would swap a known good power steering pump on, maybe from one of your other known good squares, and see if that fixes it. If not then you know where your problem lies, and that means now is the time to decide whether or not to go crossover.

davbell22602
07-04-2011, 09:28 AM
Maybe the bearings in the steering column are going bad.

dhamp
07-05-2011, 11:17 AM
Way to go HRPC! Congrats on the new baby!

89Suburban
07-05-2011, 11:43 AM
Anyone got any idea which could be wrong with this truck? Power Steer Pump is full of fluid, belt is attatched and working fine. But, it acts like Power Steering without the belt on it. Steering is very very hard. Is it the pump has gone bad or is it the power steering gear box??? Seems when I first start it up, I have somewhat of power steering for about 3 minutes, but still not all that great. After the 3 minutes, that's it, its like steering a tank.

:think:


My Blazer was like that when I got it.

The pump shaft was broken.Really? And the pulley will still turn and not fall off?

Irishman999
07-05-2011, 07:55 PM
These new power steering pumps are shit. Im going to put my money on it being the pump, I just replaced one after ONE YEAR.

In all fairness my wife drove it to her school and back with no fluid in it. Usually when it would run out I could just fill it back up and it was fine, this time it was growling with fluid and not working at all.

RetroC10Sport
07-05-2011, 08:12 PM
:think:


Really? And the pulley will still turn and not fall off?

The guy that had it before me drove it that way for months. It will move but the belt does keep it in place.

HotRodPC
07-06-2011, 09:08 PM
That's what gets me about this one, and what makes me wonder if its not the gear box, is that it doesn't growl or make any noise. It has fluid, belt and all. No wierd noise at all. Just no PS.

HotRodPC
08-16-2011, 10:57 PM
Progress Update. I got it up on ramps tonight. Guess what that means??? If finally time to install the rebuilt trans.

Both of my 4x4's are in the driveway side by side now. So they can make friends. The 85K10 looks like hell with that shell on it, but its only there cuz I am storing squarebody parts in the back of the truck and want them protected from the weather.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3300&d=1313549541

Up on ramps.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3301&d=1313549566

I have another set of ramps too, thinking I might put the rear wheels in ramps too to level it off. So I'll have plenty of room to get the trans and tcase out as 1 piece.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3302&d=1313549585

Looks like I should have plenty of room to get the trans jack under it and bring the trans and tcase out as one piece.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3303&d=1313549830

bucket
08-17-2011, 12:41 AM
Your hard-to-find double hump crossmember is bent. I like the brush guard and the white painted wheels though.

HotRodPC
08-17-2011, 03:06 AM
Yep, it sure is. I have another crossmeber that a guy gave me when I bought the Kcase 700r4 and NP241C out of a 89 Burb. I think I'm going to use that crossmember instead. I know I won't be using that one.

Irishman999
08-17-2011, 03:14 AM
I suggest getting the front end a little higher, it might be different since your truck is auto. I had to put cinder blocks with wood blocks on them under the tires to get it high enough to clear.

HotRodPC
08-17-2011, 03:25 AM
I think I'm going to jack the ass end up and put my other set of ramps under the rear wheels, so it should be leveled off and have enough room for sure. I intalled the Th400 in the 84 C20 without ramps and it sitting on the ground. The K1500 sits just a hair taller than the C20, and being on ramps too, I think it should have plenty of room.

1low4x4
08-17-2011, 03:30 AM
Nice truck! reminds me of mine. Almost wish mine was 4x4

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 01:40 AM
I'm pissed off at myself. I am short a Th350 filter so I can't finish my trans for this truck tonight. I ended up building that Th350 and the using the 700r4 adapter on the tailshaft so I don't have to cut the dshaft and can use the same crossmember location. BTW, If the NP241C Burban crossmember won't work on this, I have the double hump crossmember off the 85K10 that is perfect, but I hope to be able to use the Burb crossmember.

This Th350 Build is pretty much a freebie and why I'm using it. This truck has 3.73 so I do intened to buuld the 700r4 Kcase that I have for it, but its gonna have to wait til I get funds to buy all the upgrades I want for it. This Th350 will then go into the other 85K10 after I get the 700r4 built. I'd have all the parts to get my 85K10 running now, except that I loaned my spare 350 motor to my bro, that I'll never get back. So I'll have to wait til I can rering the Heche En Mexico 350 I have for the 85K10 now.

This Th350 I call a freebie, had all the good stuff in it without buying upgrades. I had a stage 1 shift kit out of another trans I tore apart for hard parts to rebuild my bros's trans. That trans also had almsot new looking clutches in it. So I used the clutchs and shift kit ouf the parts donor. I had bought a seal kit long long ago for a set of OEM vavle body gaskets. Since this was a shift kit, I had a spare set of OEM valve body gaskets since we used a shift kit in my bro's build. I used a paper hole punch and punch out a few holes in the gasket to make them shift improver kit gaskets to use with this Stage 1 kit. So, other than a filter and fluid, this is a ZERO cost trans build. I did also replace a few bushings that I had left over out of a Th400 build that used the same bushings. I also used all the good hard parts that allowed use of torrington bearings instead of thrust washers. If I recall correctly, I only have 1 plastic non wearhing thrust washer in this trans. Everything else is torrington roller bearings. I expect it to be a good running trans and excited to get it in and finally get to drive this truck 75mph.
This Th350 will end up in the 85K10 since it has 3.08 wussy wagon gears, just to get it running. Remember the 85K10 is the one that I have the 14bn full float 4.10 rear end for, and hoping to find a Dana 44 or 10 Bolt 4.10 8 lug front axle, then I'll consider changing it to a built 700r4 also. I think I got the plans down now. Just time and money, and money and time. :grd:

Now my rant about being pissed over not haveing a filter is done. After all that typing, its outta my sytem and I'm not pist anymore.

Irishman999
08-22-2011, 01:51 AM
I'm pissed off at myself. I am short a Th350 filter so I can't finish my trans for this truck tonight. I ended up building that Th350 and the using the 700r4 adapter on the tailshaft so I don't have to cut the dshaft and can use the same crossmember location. BTW, If the NP241C Burban crossmember won't work on this, I have the double hump crossmember off the 85K10 that is perfect, but I hope to be able to use the Burb crossmember.

This Th350 Build is pretty much a freebie and why I'm using it. This truck has 3.73 so I do intened to buuld the 700r4 Kcase that I have for it, but its gonna have to wait til I get funds to buy all the upgrades I want for it. This Th350 will then go into the other 85K10 after I get the 700r4 built. I'd have all the parts to get my 85K10 running now, except that I loaned my spare 350 motor to my bro, that I'll never get back. So I'll have to wait til I can rering the Heche En Mexico 350 I have for the 85K10 now.

This Th350 I call a freebie, had all the good stuff in it without buying upgrades. I had a stage 1 shift kit out of another trans I tore apart for hard parts to rebuild my bros's trans. That trans also had almsot new looking clutches in it. So I used the clutchs and shift kit ouf the parts donor. I had bought a seal kit long long ago for a set of OEM vavle body gaskets. Since this was a shift kit, I had a spare set of OEM valve body gaskets since we used a shift kit in my bro's build. I used a paper hole punch and punch out a few holes in the gasket to make them shift improver kit gaskets to use with this Stage 1 kit. So, other than a filter and fluid, this is a ZERO cost trans build. I did also replace a few bushings that I had left over out of a Th400 build that used the same bushings. I also used all the good hard parts that allowed use of torrington bearings instead of thrust washers. If I recall correctly, I only have 1 plastic non wearhing thrust washer in this trans. Everything else is torrington roller bearings. I expect it to be a good running trans and excited to get it in and finally get to drive this truck 75mph.
This Th350 will end up in the 85K10 since it has 3.08 wussy wagon gears, just to get it running. Remember the 85K10 is the one that I have the 14bn full float 4.10 rear end for, and hoping to find a Dana 44 or 10 Bolt 4.10 8 lug front axle, then I'll consider changing it to a built 700r4 also. I think I got the plans down now. Just time and money, and money and time. :grd:

Now my rant about being pissed over not haveing a filter is done. After all that typing, its outta my sytem and I'm not pist anymore.

Shit at least you have a transmission to put in it. Lets see your old ass p ut it in now :roflbow: I am excited for you.

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 02:15 AM
Getting it in wil not be an issue as soon as weather cools off. I have a scissor trans jack and its up on ramps, so all will be good. I just wish I could get enough funds to get all my upgrades for the 700r4 to put in this truck, so this Th350 cna put in the 85K10 as soon as I get the 350 engine rebuilt. I have a Tcase ready to go. Starting to see a light at the end of the tunnel as far as getting both the 4x4's running. Can't wait to get them all running, then I can start on suspensions and cosmetics. Sick of driving ugly trucks. But, I would just prefer to have them all at least running so I can move them if i choose to move to AZ anytime soon.

Irishman999
08-22-2011, 03:59 AM
Have you figured out which part of Az yet?

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 06:54 PM
Have you figured out which part of Az yet?

Likely Kingman. Cuz of cost of living, weather and location close to I-40, 30 minutes from Laughlin and Colorado River, Lake Mohave, Less than 2 hours to Flagstaff. It just seems to be central to everywhere I'd want to go incuding So Cal not to far.

Irishman999
08-22-2011, 07:17 PM
Likely Kingman. Cuz of cost of living, weather and location close to I-40, 30 minutes from Laughlin and Colorado River, Lake Mohave, Less than 2 hours to Flagstaff. It just seems to be central to everywhere I'd want to go incuding So Cal not to far.

I stayed a night in Kingman a couple times, I like it there too. I have been all over Arizona, so far my favorite towns have been Prescott valley and Camp Verde.

Phoenx is a giant down town Reno with the heat turned way up. You could not pay me to live in that shithole right now. Mormon country is everything East of Showlow and they do not like new people in their town. Dropping a shit load of money on hunting is cool with them, just as long as you leave.

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 07:29 PM
I stayed a night in Kingman a couple times, I like it there too. I have been all over Arizona, so far my favorite towns have been Prescott valley and Camp Verde.

Phoenx is a giant down town Reno with the heat turned way up. You could not pay me to live in that shithole right now. Mormon country is everything East of Showlow and they do not like new people in their town. Dropping a shit load of money on hunting is cool with them, just as long as you leave.

Hell no, I won't do Phoenix. Flagstaff is beautiful, but to cold. A nice place to visit. I was strongly considering Bullhead City too. But I thnk I want to be closer to I 40 for a straight shot to OKC, and So Cal. Also Kingman is warner in the winter and cooler in the summer than Bullhead. KIngman also seems to be a cleaner city to me too. I am sure that might where wha part I have seem though. I need to be sorta close to Havasu too. I have several friends there in Havasu City and they hang out alot at Site Six. :grd:

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 07:31 PM
So, I stopped at Oreily's today and got a screen filter for the Th350. I would have preffered the Dacrom filter, but didn't want to wiat for ordering it and days to get here. This was $7 at O'Ry's and it happen to have come with a Neoprene pan gasket too, so that made it all worthwhile. All my Th350 pan gaskets are Cork/Rubber and I don't like those for pan gaskets.

And I got 3 gallons of Trans Fluid At Wally World for $10.77 each. They were $15.99 at O'Reily's.

89Suburban
08-22-2011, 07:53 PM
So, I stopped at Oreily's today and got a screen filter for the Th350. I would have preffered the Dacrom filter, but didn't want to wiat for ordering it and days to get here. This was $7 at O'Ry's and it happen to have come with a Neoprene pan gasket too, so that made it all worthwhile. All my Th350 pan gaskets are Cork/Rubber and I don't like those for pan gaskets.

And I got 3 gallons of Trans Fluid At Wally World for $10.77 each. They were $15.99 at O'Reily's.

I never knew they offered gaskets other than fiber or cork, glad to know that. I really want to do my trans filter and fluid this winter. Are you going to try to flush the converter too?

HotRodPC
08-22-2011, 08:21 PM
I never knew they offered gaskets other than fiber or cork, glad to know that. I really want to do my trans filter and fluid this winter. Are you going to try to flush the converter too?

The conveter is good and had pretty red fluid in it. The trans the converer came off of, was in great shape with no sludge, so I know the converter is good. But yes, for GP I will have it flushed. I rarely have converters flushed, just replace them since crap gets embeded to the walls with centrifical force, but as said, this trans was clean and no sign of any sludge or gunk. It'll be a good build wish used parts, but they are good enough, I'd expect 75,000-100,000 miles out of it. I'll likely tear it up or have upgraded to something else by that time. This is pretty just going to be the back up trans for both of my 4x4's, the 85K1500 and the 85K10.

HotRodPC
08-25-2011, 09:44 PM
I decided I'm not going to be able to take this trans out and back in all in the same day at the same time with this heat, and working wierd hours. So I guess I'll do in pieces. Tonight I got the driveshafts out. I knew I have a bad U joint by the clang in the driveshaft when I put it in gear, but damn, didn't realize it was this bad. The rear joint on the rear end, didn't have any pin bearings at all in 2 of the cups to the driveshaft. The ones in the yoke were OK. Original U joints still in it too. The kind I'll have to heat with a torch to get out. So I'll be replacing all 5 U joints too for both driveshafts.

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 01:30 PM
This truck just got a little better for me. I was under it taking off the converter conver and noticed what looked like some oil cooler lines off the oil filter assembly. I follow the lines and sure enough. An oil cooler in front of the radiator. It didn't look aftermarket at all. But I figured that should have been on the RPO code sticker and I don't recall seeing that on there. So I went and looked at it again. Sure enough, its on there. KC4 Engine Oil Cooling System.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3412&d=1314466248

89Suburban
08-27-2011, 01:40 PM
Remember, next time you have the filter off to snug up those diverter mounting bolts. They are an allen head bolt.

I will be unscrewing my glove box open later today. :roflbow: :shitsweak:

I got that glove box lock unit on my wish list.

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 01:47 PM
Ah hell, you know what, I never got back to you on that glove box latch. Sumbish, I seen that around here not long ago and now can't remember where I seen it. I have fuggin truck parts everywhere in different locations and different piles. Next time I see it, I'll put on top pf my fridge or something and get it ready to ship.
Speaking of, did you find out if truck 2 door lock actuators are the same the 4 door Burb? I'd imagine they are.

89Suburban
08-27-2011, 01:52 PM
Ah hell, you know what, I never got back to you on that glove box latch. Sumbish, I seen that around here not long ago and now can't remember where I seen it. I have fuggin truck parts everywhere in different locations and different piles. Next time I see it, I'll put on top pf my fridge or something and get it ready to ship.
Speaking of, did you find out if truck 2 door lock actuators are the same the 4 door Burb? I'd imagine they are.

Yeah, part numbers match on LMC between the truck and Burb doors. I will be tearing my door apart tonight to ceck the actuator out and I got to try swapping those door locks again so I can get into my truck form the drivers side, lol. I got a little wish list in the "Wanted" section bro if you got anything else laying around.

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 08:19 PM
This is turning out to be a real bitch. That crossmember being bent up and the frame rails bent is not making this tough job anything but even harder. I did finally get the crossmember though. All I have left now is bellhosing bolts and 1 cooling that I might have to break off since its turning the fitting in the transmisison and wanting to twist the line. I'm not giving up on it yet though. I think I'm going to be the bellhousing bolts first, try to lower both the trans and Tcase with the jacks, then maybe I'll have room to get the 11/16 open end wrench on the trans fitting, and then the 1/2 line wrench on the line and break them loose that way otherwise, I'll have to replace a trans line.

One thing I think I have made my mind up about now, is body lift. I don't care for body lift and if I did I'd go 2in max. Now that I am under this pig working on it, I can see how a 2in body lift to give more room to work on things can be a benefit. I was wanting to a 4in suspension lift and call it good, but i think now I'll go with 4in suspension and 2in body lift. I don't want anything extreme where it will change the integrity of the OEM parts and don't want to have to make alot of aftermarket changes and updates. Doing the Tcase and Trans together is a fuggin bitch. I'm using a trans jack on the trans, and a floor jack on the Tcase, hoping that will bring it all down together safely. It sucks having to do shit like this yourself. :flipthebird:

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 09:41 PM
Finally, some proof of progress. I did have to sacrifice the one cooling line. I even had plenty of room to get wrenches in there, and it wasn't budging, and I even rounded off the hex using a line wrench. That's when I gave up on it and decided I wanted it replaced anyway. I don't like rounded off shit on my trucks. Always a sure sign some idiot worked on it without the proper tools and I don't roll like that. Got that bish out as one piece and didn't have to lift the truck up any higher off the ramps to get it either. What a PITA.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3417&d=1314495688
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3418&d=1314496103

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 09:56 PM
And here is the Th350 that is temporarily replacing the 700r4. Its been siting here in the house long enough just waiting to get installed. I'm not sure I'll get to start the installation tommorow or not. I need to deal with the bent frame rails, and see which crossmember I'm going to use .
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3419&d=1314496570

bucket
08-27-2011, 10:07 PM
Ya know, you could probably get the bend out of the crossmember with a press. Just kinda smash the bend out of it. Even if you don't want to mess with it, I think it would be a shame to scrap it.

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 11:13 PM
Ya know, you could probably get the bend out of the crossmember with a press. Just kinda smash the bend out of it. Even if you don't want to mess with it, I think it would be a shame to scrap it.

You're right on the one side, but the other side is mangled pretty good. It was bent over the top of the bolt. I had to get a biggo pry bar and a 4lb quarter jack sledge just to bend it enough out of the way to be able to get the bolts out of the crossmember.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3425&d=1314501030

This end I think could have been fixed like you mentioned with a press.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3426&d=1314502029

HotRodPC
08-27-2011, 11:44 PM
This is the driver side frame rail that is bent. Its gonna be fun to try and straighten out. I don't what they hit, but they hit something hard to damage the crossmember and frame rail like this. Amazingly, no damage to the Tcase, but this truck does have the OEM skid plate that bolts to the crossmember to protect the Tcase. Maybe it did its job.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3427&d=1314502928
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3429&d=1314503026
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3428&d=1314502987

bucket
08-27-2011, 11:45 PM
Yeah, that's ugly... I could fix it though. A little heat here, a little hammering there...

bucket
08-27-2011, 11:47 PM
I've got a tool that will make quick work of that frame rail too.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 12:09 AM
The passenger side bent frame rail isn't as bad. I'm thinking I can use a piece of straight channel iron with bolt holes thru it. Then use bolts, nuts and washers to pull the flanges down tight to the channel iron and straighten the rails.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3430&d=1314504548

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 12:23 AM
I've got a tool that will make quick work of that frame rail too.

What tool do you have or what method do you suggest. Not alot of room to swing a little sledge hammer, not to mention I think that would make it ugly and wavey. I know I may not get it perfect, but I'd like to get it at least close. I was thinking maybe a big vise grip and a large pry bar off the top rail but again, that's gonne make it ugly too.

I do have a Burb Crossmember for a NP208/NP241C. The hole pattern is a little different and I'd have to drill holes in the frame to make it work. Or, I have the crossmember off the 85K10 that I can rob from it until I start building the 85K10. I have a feeling it'll have to be 85K10 crossmember to be able to get the exhaust to work. Dunno yet for sure. I'll play with both and see what I can do about the exhaust. Its headers so the pipes will come straight off the collectors.

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 11:55 AM
Good job HR.

bucket
08-28-2011, 01:18 PM
What tool do you have or what method do you suggest.

Kind of hard to explain how it works, and it's so old that I don't have a clue where you could find one. It'd be best if I snap a pic for you.

There's one thing you can try, but I'm not sure you will have the clearance for it. It involves a big Crescent wrench and a pipe to slide over it. Just put the crescent wrench on the bent part of the rail and adjust it tight. Then put the pipe on the handle and hang on it.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 01:37 PM
Kind of hard to explain how it works, and it's so old that I don't have a clue where you could find one. It'd be best if I snap a pic for you.

There's one thing you can try, but I'm not sure you will have the clearance for it. It involves a big Crescent wrench and a pipe to slide over it. Just put the crescent wrench on the bent part of the rail and adjust it tight. Then put the pipe on the handle and hang on it.

I thought of that too. There is plenty of room to try that without the trans and Tcase in there. I'm just afraid I'd end up with a wavy frame rail flange if I did that.
I'm thinking of making a tool out of some heavy channel iron. Using some bolt holes, strong bolts and another piece of cold steel to make like a press. Using an impact gun on the bolts as they tighten, it should be pulling the flange straight. Sorta like a press or vise.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 02:46 PM
Here are better pics at a better angle to show the bent frame rail flanges.

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 02:46 PM
I thought of that too. There is plenty of room to try that without the trans and Tcase in there. I'm just afraid I'd end up with a wavy frame rail flange if I did that.
I'm thinking of making a tool out of some heavy channel iron. Using some bolt holes, strong bolts and another piece of cold steel to make like a press. Using an impact gun on the bolts as they tighten, it should be pulling the flange straight. Sorta like a press or vise.I might mork some of the way, but I am sure it would pop back out of shape again at least a little. That frame metal seems like it holds a little memory. Like you would have to bend it farther than where you want it to settle. And ding that is going to stretch the metal no matter how you look at it. I am sure you will get it close enough to be functional.

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 02:47 PM
Looking at those new pics I would do just like bucket said with a BF Crescent wrench.

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 02:54 PM
BTW, that tranny jack is awesome. :waytogo:

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 02:55 PM
Looking at those new pics I would do just like bucket said with a BF Crescent wrench.

I'm sure that will work, but I'll do that as last resort. I'm picky you know. I don't want it wavy. I think I'll make this press thing I have in mind, try it first, then if I have to make some adjustments, I'll use the vise grip or crescent wrench trick.

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 02:58 PM
Good luck to ya man. :popcorn:

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 02:58 PM
Here are pics of the differant crossmembers I have. The W crossmember is for a truck, this good one if off my 85K10, and the other is a Burb crossmember that came with the 89 K case 700r4, NP241C that I got for $100. Then I sold the NP241C for $100.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3445&d=1314557892
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3446&d=1314557923
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3447&d=1314557936

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 03:11 PM
BTW, that tranny jack is awesome. :waytogo:

Yeah, the jack is basazz. I got it at Harbor Freight on sale, then used a 20% off coupon with it. I think I ended up paying $30 or $40 for it. But its worth every penny. I did have to use a floor jack on the Tcase cuz with the jack strapped to the transmisison, the jack kept wanting to do wheelies. :happy175:

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 03:24 PM
I was wondering about that, but that is a great deal, and it's got the strap on it. Can you adjust the pitch and roll on that baby?

89Suburban
08-28-2011, 03:27 PM
Here are pics of the differant crossmembers I have. The W crossmember is for a truck, this good one if off my 85K10, and the other is a Burb crossmember that came with the 89 K case 700r4, NP241C that I got for $100. Then I sold the NP241C for $100.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3445&d=1314557892
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3446&d=1314557923
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3447&d=1314557936

Terrific comparison photo's. The W piece looks like a deeper stronger piece from the side shot, and the overhead shot the 241C piece looks stronger because it is wider. Are these the only two 4x4 cross members GM Made? :popcorn:

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 03:42 PM
I was wondering about that, but that is a great deal, and it's got the strap on it. Can you adjust the pitch and roll on that baby?

Yeah, the top platform has wingnuts on each side to adjust the slope or angle of the trans. Its not much, but its enough. I'd say only gives about 1 1/2 inch front to back adjustment. With the strap on and tightened up, that trans only going to do what you make the jack do. And the wheels move so smooth too. I wish I had one of these 25 years ago. Make one hell of a big difference in installing a trans off of ramps in your driveway. Now this one, if my truck had a lift kit, it wouldn't have reached the trans. But then again, with a lift kit, I probably wouldn't have needed to put it on ramps either.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 03:45 PM
Terrific comparison photo's. The W piece looks like a deeper stronger piece from the side shot, and the overhead shot the 241C piece looks stronger because it is wider. Are these the only two 4x4 cross members GM Made? :popcorn:

There might be other crossmembers for the NP203 and NP205, but these are only 2 I know of in the later squarebodies, like 81 and up to 91. And I don't know if its Truck, or Burb that makes the difference, of it is NP208 or NP241C that makes a difference cuz NP208 and NP241C are very intechangable as far as mounts, adapters, shifter linkage, crossmembers, mounts etc.

crazy4offroad
08-28-2011, 06:11 PM
For that bent frame rail I would use a torch and big ole pipe wrench and cheater pipe. The pipe wrench gives a little more mechanical advantage. Then once you get it close apply more heat, hold the head of a big sledge hammer on top of the lip and hit the bottom with a 2 pound hammer or so. The sledge on top acts as an anvil and you don't have to hold it on there that tight, just tight enough that it don't fall off while you're hammering with the other hand..

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 07:28 PM
I guess I'll have to live with what I got. It doesn't look as good as I'd like, but it will put the crossmember in the exact correct position regardless of waves in the rail.

This is the before passenger side rail.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3444&d=1314557614

This is the after passenger side rail.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3450&d=1314574012

This is while trying to straightening the driver side.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3451&d=1314574051

This is the driver side BEFORE frame rail.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3443&d=1314557278

This the AFTER driver side frame rail. Guess I'll live with it, but not very satisfied with it.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3452&d=1314574082

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 07:48 PM
Looking at Pic #2 above, Im going back out there and going to run the channel iron underneath tha frame rail again and get that bolt hole straight down. I just wish I should get those rails prettier, but I'll have to settle for this as long as the crossmember bolts in the right place and the bolts are straight down and puts the Tcase in the right position at the right height which it appears to do that just fine when I put the crossmember into position. I've decided I'll use the W crossmember from the 85K10 which is the OEM crossmember for this 85K1500. Maybe I'll use the Burb crossmember on the 85K10 or try to trade it for a W member. I'll get that worked on the 85K10 when the time comes.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 08:42 PM
OK, so I've decided to live with the frame rails the way they are since the crossmember will work find and have the Tcase in the OEM position. As far as intalling the new trans and the Tcase, anyone got any tips or tricks for me to be able to do this myself without help of any kind? I'm thinking of installing the trans first by itself, then putting the Tcase on the trans after the trans is bolted up to the engine. Anyone know if this is a doable feat? Or will it be a real bitch to get the bolts to connect the Tcase to the trans??? Any tips appreciated !!!

crazy4offroad
08-28-2011, 08:51 PM
If you have the removable trans hump I set up cement blocks in the cab with a 4x4 on top and a come-along to lift it. Otherwise you'll have to put the trans and t-case in separately. Hey you got a cherry picker, fucker! Just use that.

HotRodPC
08-28-2011, 09:03 PM
NO remoavable hump dawg. Wish it did. So I can put the trans in seperate form the Tcase, and there will be enough room to bolt it the Tcase to the trans and all that mess? I was hoping that was the best way to do it. I can deal with that using my trans jack and floor jack.

crazy4offroad
08-28-2011, 09:06 PM
I've actually done it by myself using cement blocks and a jack, doing one end at a time. Around here you cant get anyone to help you do anything. It was slow, hard and time consuming. And it was on a S-10 Blazer. If you cant get it high enough to get a jack under it, then separately might be the best way. The top t-case bolt(s) will be the toughest, and your linkage of course but you will have to deal with that either way it goes.

bucket
08-28-2011, 10:53 PM
Terrific comparison photo's. The W piece looks like a deeper stronger piece from the side shot, and the overhead shot the 241C piece looks stronger because it is wider. Are these the only two 4x4 cross members GM Made? :popcorn:

For the 80's 1/2 and 3/4 tons, yes. The 1 tons used a different crossmember, The 70's trucks used a different crossmember, and again, the 1 ton was a little different.

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 04:01 PM
About ready to get rockin on the install !!!

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3575&d=1315166490

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 05:25 PM
Trans in up and all bellhousing bolts are tightened up including the dip stick. Going to route the Detent cable, hook up the linkage, torque converter bolts, cooling lines and vac line. Then, I'll install the Transfer Case. That is obviously the way to do it by yourself. There is plenty of room to get to the 4 tailshaft to tcase adapter bolts. I doubt I'll have it rolling today, but I'd at least like to have the T case on and crossmember bolted in. Leaving nothing but dshafts, Tcase linkage, speedo and passneger side exhaust back on.

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 08:17 PM
I had a change of plans. I decided to go ahead bolt up the transfer case and get the crossmember in, so I can get the trans off the jack, and the truck off the ramps. Got it done. Trans and Tcase are bolted up, crossmember is in and trans/tcase combo are in supported on their own power now. Just hook up everything, install new u joints, then driveshafts and off it goes. Might be awhile. I don't have the cash for the 5 U joints and another 2 gallons of fluid to finish filling the trans and filling the Tcase. Since time is not a factor, I am going to install an additional trans cooler.
Nice to know the hard part is all done !!! :waytogo:

foamypirate
09-04-2011, 08:58 PM
Ah shucks, don't you just hate that non-inifinite money thing? I could barely afford the casters for my truck bed dolly because of my wife's recent medical bills. She had ankle surgery about 7 weeks ago, and the bills are still rolling in. I'm pretty much limited to about $250/mo for the truck right now (if I'm lucky), which sure doesn't go far...

But here we are, gittin' r' done anyway! :High 5:

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 09:13 PM
NO doubt, funds have delayed my projects more than anythng. I was thinking a few bucks, but at minimum $10 ea for U joints, more like $13-$15 each. and 2 gallons of fluid, I'm looking at about $80. Not this week or the week after unless I sell some parts, which wouldn't be a bad deal. I need to get start thinning out my parts.

bucket
09-04-2011, 09:35 PM
What style crossmember did you end up using?

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 09:53 PM
I went ahead and used the OEM W off my 85K10. With those frame rails not perfect, I figured using an OEM crossmember and tightening up might just straighten the rails a bit more. I'll use the Burb crossmember in the 85K10, or find another W when the time comes. I have to do some work to make the skid plate work too. That crossmember was not only bent, it was also twisted.

crazy4offroad
09-04-2011, 10:01 PM
Now you know why I would freak out when new "maintenance-free" u-joints would be toast after a weekend of wheeling! It would usually be at least 3 of them screwed up at the end of the ride, if it was a hardcore ride. That gets expensive! Cuts into the future mod money!

HotRodPC
09-04-2011, 10:12 PM
Now you know why I would freak out when new "maintenance-free" u-joints would be toast after a weekend of wheeling! It would usually be at least 3 of them screwed up at the end of the ride, if it was a hardcore ride. That gets expensive! Cuts into the future mod money!

These are going to be a bitch too. They are still the original U joints, so I have to torch them out. Also the U Joint books seem to list both inside and outside keepers. Being mine don't have keepers at all and still the OEM fiber joints, I don't know which U joints to buy.

crazy4offroad
09-04-2011, 10:16 PM
Rear should be external, front should be internal.

HotRodPC
09-17-2011, 06:30 PM
Finally got the trans in and able to take it for a drive. Still no power steering and no windows able to be rolled down. But now have to get ready to split for work.

Its got real nice firm shifts and actually has all 3 gears. I can finally drive it over 40mph.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MInvfsAE6cQ

HotRodPC
09-17-2011, 06:37 PM
And one more. Video sucks, but you can still hear it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdc5x4Hg8hs

Irishman999
09-17-2011, 06:52 PM
Dude your 85 sounds great! Good job man.

HotRodPC
09-17-2011, 07:10 PM
Dude your 85 sounds great! Good job man.

The wind noise gets to loud at higher speed so you can't hear the 3rd gear shift. But yep, its running pretty good. I had a Stage 1 RV towing shift kit laying around that I pulled out of the donor trans to fix my brothers trans, so I put it in this trans. Its got nice firm positive shifts, but nothing harsh that will break your neck. You just know when it shifts. It doesn't piss around and slip into 2nd or 3rd. Its pretty instant and firm. I'm likin it.

Now just have to get the psteering pump replaced and figure out the power windows then I'll drive the sumbish daily when I'm not driving the tow truck. I didn't drive the 84 for 9 days straight. It just sat at the tow yard and I drove the tow truck.

Old77
09-17-2011, 08:56 PM
:High 5:

HotRodPC
09-17-2011, 11:41 PM
Here is another audio clip. Lighter throttle take off so you can hear all the shifts, and then a downshift to 2nd. I'm pretty happy with the trans build. Especially since it was used clutches and steels, and shift kit. All that is new is the seal and gaskets, and trans fluid. I just tore it apart cleaned everything very well, and reused very good used clutches out of other transmisisons I recently rebuilt. Not bad for a $500 truck. I have another $45 in it for this trans build including the fluid, and the new U-Joint in the rear. So now its a $545 truck.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka71_I_cFrk

Old77
09-17-2011, 11:51 PM
Now get that c20 fixed so that you don't die!! :slap:

HotRodPC
09-18-2011, 12:08 AM
Now get that c20 fixed so that you don't die!! :slap:

Oh, you mean this???

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0_ETUbgojk&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Irishman999
09-18-2011, 12:35 AM
Dude I am jealous! I stopped keeping track of my build around 2500 bucks and that was well over a year ago. I still need paint, an engine and transmission..... You got a package deal. I would DD the shit out of that thing.

HotRodPC
09-18-2011, 12:50 AM
Dude I am jealous! I stopped keeping track of my build around 2500 bucks and that was well over a year ago. I still need paint, an engine and transmission..... You got a package deal. I would DD the shit out of that thing.

This is the 2nd truck I stole. Remember the 84 C20 was only $100 with a 20-30K crate 454 in it. The Th400 was blown up. This is why I've decided just to go with my automatics instead of the manual trans that I really wanted. Auto's are to damn cheap to build. I can build an automatic cheaper than you buy a clutch kit for let alone rebuild the manual trans. I'd have never got those 2 trucks so cheap if it was not for the auto transmissions being blown. The guy on this 85K1500, was quoted $1200 for a trans rebuild of the 700r4 that was in it. He didn't feel the truck was worth that much and why he sold it. He's right. Had he spent $1200 for a new trans rebuild, he would not have been able to sell that truck for $1700 with a new trans and a 10K mile crate 350 motor. Remember the truck still has the steering issue and power window problem. I bought it cuz I knew the crate motor was worth more then the $500. And he had a clear current title on the truck where my 85K10 has a title problem and no powertrain in it at all. Don't be jealous. Just learn how to build auto transmisisons and keep your eyes and ears open for a steal deal.

89Suburban
09-18-2011, 01:12 AM
AAAahahhahahah, those videos kick asss!!!

Mr Clean
09-18-2011, 03:34 PM
:High 5: Hell Yea. Like the Vids, but yes it's time to stop driving the one, so you don't have to walk home to get your tow truck to pick it up off the ground. It's bad and you know you shouldn't be driving it young man. Don't make me put you on punishment. LOL But seriously bro you need to stop driving that one, before you get hurt or hurt someone.

HotRodPC
09-21-2011, 08:28 PM
So nice to have parts around. Remember the 81 cab and frame with 305/Th350 and 12bolt I bought for $100? That was the one I sold every single part of the truck including the rust free cab for $50, frame for $100, rear end for $125, heads off the blown 305 for $25 etc etc. I did keep the accessories off the front of the motor and the Th350 trans core. I had the power steering pump in the shed with all the original brackets on it.

So without having to go chase down a new PS pump, renting a pulley puller and all the BS, I put the PS pump on the 85 K1500. Yup, I now have power steering. Now I can reasonably drive the K1500.

Driving it today, its got a little stumble at a rolling take off and stabbing the throttle. Nothing serious I don't think. I did check the timing, it was retarted about 8 degrees. Advanced it. That helped and gave it a little more umph. Runs good. Just got to get those power windows working and work the bugs out of the tuning of the carb and ignition and I expect it'll run even better. Of course the transmission work beautifully so no issues there.

I think its good enough to finally convert the K1500 to the DD and park the C20 until I get that upper A arm issue resolved.

bucket
09-21-2011, 09:56 PM
What did you set the timing at? I don't remember what the factory wanted, but the TBI trucks call for them to be set at zero... but they REALLY like to be advanced 8-12 degrees.

HotRodPC
09-21-2011, 10:48 PM
What did you set the timing at? I don't remember what the factory wanted, but the TBI trucks call for them to be set at zero... but they REALLY like to be advanced 8-12 degrees.

Before, it was off the scale by about a half inch. I set it at 4 degrees before. Its not running on after I shut it off, and its not pinging. It actually runs alot better than I thought. I've been out driving it around running errands like checking the PO Box, dropping stuff off at my moms across town just to have reason to take it for a spin. If I get on it pretty good before hitting 2nd gear, it'll get a mean 2nd gear chirp just about everytime now depeding on the street surface. I'm likin it alot !!! :High 5:

HotRodPC
09-21-2011, 10:50 PM
hahaha, I think I'm gonna go for another drive and hang the cam out the back sliding glass. The video won't pick up since its dark, but the audio might sound pretty good.

HotRodPC
09-21-2011, 11:43 PM
It doesn't sound as good in the video, but here's a sound clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZRlsMO2ylI

Irishman999
09-22-2011, 12:03 AM
It doesn't sound as good in the video, but here's a sound clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZRlsMO2ylI&edit=ev&feature=uenh

dude that thing sounds like shit, you gotta do something.....:roflbow:

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 12:14 AM
dude that thing sounds like shit, you gotta do something.....:roflbow:

I think I'm calling pull a part in the morning. The power windows won't roll down. :baby:

:roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 12:17 AM
This one is a little better. Just a little chirp, but its sounds alot better live in person, especially when you can feel it too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieDdUetOyNw

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 12:22 PM
We need the rain, so I won't complain. I really wanted to get to PAP today and get the older style brackets for the throttle cable for this truck. You might notice in the audio clips, its takes a bit to get the rpms up. The PO kid put the Eddy carb on but didn't do any of the provisions for adapting the throttle cable and TV cable, which is what burnt up the OEM 700r4, so I am only getting 3/4 throttle when I push it to the floor. Can't wait to get the throttle to a full pull on the carb, and the Detent cable adjusted right. I have a feeling then, this thing will run real good.

If it doesn't, I'm going for a cam swap. Its already got the intake, carb and headers, so a mild RV will wake it up nicely. I won't go over that since it has the junky old shcool heads on it and it won't breathe well with anything bigger than an RV cam.

RetroC10Sport
09-22-2011, 06:48 PM
I think I'm calling pull a part in the morning. The power windows won't roll down. :baby:

:roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

Neither one? Perhaps it's just not hooked up at the fuse box.

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 07:06 PM
Neither one? Perhaps it's just not hooked up at the fuse box.

No, the dumbass PO had cut the wires and removed the switches. I'm hoping just to splice in switch ends and switches and they work hopefully.

RetroC10Sport
09-22-2011, 07:07 PM
Ah, simple enough.

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 09:52 PM
So, tonight I installed the front driveshaft U-Joint to the Front Axle. I used a Precision Greaseable. Got the U-Joint installed and the driveshaft installed. No Vibrations at all, in 2Hi, 4Hi or 4Lo. All the 4x4 system seems to work just fine with normal front whine when its in 4x4 etc. Only question I have, is what is procedure for puttin an NP208 in 4Lo? This is the NP208 that came with the 700r4 K case that I bought. It works identical to the Original NP208 I took out of the truck with the trans swap. Both of them did the same thing, so now I'm convinced its something I'm doing wrong. From 4Hi I stop. Put the trans in N and try to shift into 4Lo. Once it comes out of 4Hi into N, then it grinds real bad not letting me go into 4Lo, and does the same trying to get it back into 4Hi. So I shut the motor off, then put it in 4Lo and started it back up and all was well. It does shift out of 4Lo to 4 Hi no problem when I stop, put the trans in N and shift to 4Hi or even 2Hi. So what is the trick to getting it into 4Lo with the motor running???

crazy4offroad
09-22-2011, 10:10 PM
It may take putting the truck in reverse for a second and back to neutral (while t-case is in neutral) to syncronize it, if you were going forward previous to shifting the t-case. If you were going in reverse you may have to drop it in drive for a second before trying to shift the t-case out of neutral. It's like the trans tailshaft may still be moving a little in neutral (cold fluid maybe?) causing a little bit of a syncro problem.

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 10:17 PM
I'll try that next time. No it wasn't cold fluid. It was normal operating temp when I tested it. This Tcase acts exactly like the last one that was in it and why I thought I was doing something wrong. I know most Tcases, to get into 4LO. You must be at an almost complete stop or stopped, trans in N or Clutch down in a manual to shift to 4Lo. Here is the other thing, I can't put the trans in park either. It grinds cuz the output shaft is obviously spinning. I'm wondering if maybe I need to pull it from 4Hi to 4Lo fairly fast, so that it doesn't give enough time for the output shaft of the trans to start spinning.

BTW, when in 4Lo, from 1st to 2nd and trans shifting as firm as it does, :roflbow: it'll sure get your attention. Not for those with a bad neck to be riding in.

RetroC10Sport
09-22-2011, 10:18 PM
Hmmm...My S10 - 241c - has to be in park to get in 4LO.

crazy4offroad
09-22-2011, 10:19 PM
BTW, when in 4Lo, from 1st to 2nd and trans shifting as firm as it does, :roflbow: it'll sure get your attention. Not for those with a bad neck to be riding in.
HAHAHA! :lol:

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 10:42 PM
Hmmm...My S10 - 241c - has to be in park to get in 4LO.

That makes sense really. That would lock the output shaft from spinning cuz I don't think 4Lo is synchonized. 2Hi and 4Hi would be so that you can shift on the fly. That would be the only way to have shift on the fly feature is to synchronize the gears so there is a smooth transition. I'm going to go try it in a few minutes. I'd imagine if I had an owenrs manual, it would probably tell me I have to go to park to get into 4Lo.

HotRodPC
09-22-2011, 11:39 PM
Close on the Park, but that's not the only trick. Before I was going from D to N on the trans. It would come out of 4Hi to N just fine but then would grind like hell and not go into 4Lo or even back to 4Hi. So this time. I went from D to P. It went from 2hi to 4hi No problem. And then into N on the Tcase no problem. No grinding but it wouldn't go into 4Lo. I felt if I had pulled any harder something would break. So then put the trans in N and is slipped right into 4Lo without issues. So, seems the deal is to go from D to P first. Shift Tcase to N, then the trans to N and you can get into any Tcase gear you want from there. I'm sure going to P first is stopping the output shaft from spinning. Then you have to be in N on the trans to shift the Tcase into any gear. Seemed to work flawless and smooth doing it that way. I also tested shift on the fly from 2Hi to 4Hi at about 30-35 mph and seems to do just fine with no grinding. You can certainly tell when the 4x4 is engaged even at 30-35. Once the 4Hi in engaged then the front end or Tcase starts its whining. Seems like its all going to work just fine. I have all new Dextron 3 in the Tcase and Trans, Greased all the U joints and Front dshaft slide. I think tommorow just for GP, I'm going to drain the axles and put in new diff oil. Gonna go with some GL5.

89Suburban
09-23-2011, 12:57 AM
hmmm...my s10 - 241c - has to be in park to get in 4lo.

x 2

Irishman999
09-23-2011, 01:34 AM
I dont have a park, auto transmissions are for girly men.

HotRodPC
09-23-2011, 02:17 AM
I dont have a park, auto transmissions are for girly men.

I got your girly man hangin !!! I'll pull my #1 and #6 plug wire with my automatic, and still spank your SM465 in an eighth mile. :roflbow: Only real advantage I think you'd have over this automatic, would be if they were both stuck. You'd be able to rock it much better.
So what procedure do you have to use to get your Tcase into 4Lo? I know yours has and NP208 too.

HotRodPC
09-25-2011, 11:41 PM
For the first time last night, I had to go across OKC. I took the K1500 on the interstate. At about 60-70mph I am noticing some wierd noise or maybe vibration. I think its coming from the front axle area. Maybe a bad wheel bearing? I woudln't think driveshaft up front since its not spinning if Tcase is in 2Hi and hubs are unlocked. Maybe just tires need balancing? This is not a real bad vibration if it is a vibration, but it has a strange humm to it also while it seems to be vibrating. It not a death wobble by far but still, doesn't seem right. Any suggestions???

foamypirate
09-26-2011, 01:09 AM
For the first time last night, I had to go across OKC. I took the K1500 on the interstate. At about 60-70mph I am noticing some wierd noise or maybe vibration. I think its coming from the front axle area. Maybe a bad wheel bearing? I woudln't think driveshaft up front since its not spinning if Tcase is in 2Hi and hubs are unlocked. Maybe just tires need balancing? This is not a real bad vibration if it is a vibration, but it has a strange humm to it also while it seems to be vibrating. It not a death wobble by far but still, doesn't seem right. Any suggestions???

If it seems to be coming from the front, and you want to eliminate tires, you can trying moving the rear tires to the front, and the fronts to the rear to see if it follows them.

Irishman999
09-26-2011, 02:06 AM
I got your girly man hangin !!! I'll pull my #1 and #6 plug wire with my automatic, and still spank your SM465 in an eighth mile. :roflbow: Only real advantage I think you'd have over this automatic, would be if they were both stuck. You'd be able to rock it much better.
So what procedure do you have to use to get your Tcase into 4Lo? I know yours has and NP208 too.

Haha, Its true. Well the more I drive around with the SM465 the better feel I get for the 600 pounds of rotating gears aligning and shifting. Your truck would smoke mine, my engine is injured and just limping along.

Another advantage to my Muncie is... If I have a dead battery in the middle of nowhere I can push start mine.

I only had my truck in 4 low only a couple times, I just hold in the clutch for a while to let everything slow down and it pops in.

Mr Clean
09-26-2011, 12:33 PM
For the first time last night, I had to go across OKC. I took the K1500 on the interstate. At about 60-70mph I am noticing some wierd noise or maybe vibration. I think its coming from the front axle area. Maybe a bad wheel bearing? I woudln't think driveshaft up front since its not spinning if Tcase is in 2Hi and hubs are unlocked. Maybe just tires need balancing? This is not a real bad vibration if it is a vibration, but it has a strange humm to it also while it seems to be vibrating. It not a death wobble by far but still, doesn't seem right. Any suggestions???

I had that problem on my 77 Jimmy, It replaced the front hubs, that wasn't it. I messed with it for about two weeks. It ended up be my Transfer case, one of the shafts from the stick backed off a little and it was not fully in 2 Hi.

89Suburban
09-26-2011, 01:36 PM
For the first time last night, I had to go across OKC. I took the K1500 on the interstate. At about 60-70mph I am noticing some wierd noise or maybe vibration. I think its coming from the front axle area. Maybe a bad wheel bearing? I woudln't think driveshaft up front since its not spinning if Tcase is in 2Hi and hubs are unlocked. Maybe just tires need balancing? This is not a real bad vibration if it is a vibration, but it has a strange humm to it also while it seems to be vibrating. It not a death wobble by far but still, doesn't seem right. Any suggestions???

:shitsweak:

HotRodPC
09-26-2011, 02:50 PM
Haha, Its true. Well the more I drive around with the SM465 the better feel I get for the 600 pounds of rotating gears aligning and shifting. Your truck would smoke mine, my engine is injured and just limping along.

Another advantage to my Muncie is... If I have a dead battery in the middle of nowhere I can push start mine.

I only had my truck in 4 low only a couple times, I just hold in the clutch for a while to let everything slow down and it pops in.

:HIgh 5: Yes, Im actually a gear shifter myself. I know the advantages and disadvantages of both. I'm sure I've told the story here already. It was an old man who converted me to Auto's. Not because they are better, but because they are so damn plentiful, cores are cheap and easy to find, and parts to rebuild them is so cheap too. I had to go to an auto after I broke the counter gear in my M22. I liked auto's alot better when I built my own added a shift kit, did a couple trick things that old man told me, and then getting a B&M ratchet shifter. After that, I still wasn't convinced I would give up on my Muncie M21 and M22 with the Hurst Comp Plus shifter, but funds pretty much is what put the nail in the coffin after that old guy showed me how to tear down and reassemble my first trans. All he showed me was how to move the guts from 1 case to another. He didn't show me how to disassemble a valve body, pump or the drums. That part I learned on my own by looking at pics in the book and just figuring it out since the internet didn't exist way back then in the mid 80's.


Cool, I figured getting into 4Lo would be much easier in a manual trans.

HotRodPC
09-26-2011, 02:52 PM
If it seems to be coming from the front, and you want to eliminate tires, you can trying moving the rear tires to the front, and the fronts to the rear to see if it follows them.

I had that problem on my 77 Jimmy, It replaced the front hubs, that wasn't it. I messed with it for about two weeks. It ended up be my Transfer case, one of the shafts from the stick backed off a little and it was not fully in 2 Hi.

I don't think this is a tire whine or vibration. But I guess it could be since it starts in like 65 then sorta goes away about 80mph.


Its not that Clean. I already did have the issue, and it was that I didn't have the shifter pushed all the way forward into 2Hi, so I know what noise you're talking about. I've done experienced that one. :roflbow:

crazy4offroad
09-26-2011, 07:53 PM
Check to see if the rear pinion yoke is loose, or the rear t-case yoke (non-slip yoke). The vibes can transfer all the way through and make you think it's in the front.

HotRodPC
09-26-2011, 11:41 PM
Check to see if the rear pinion yoke is loose, or the rear t-case yoke (non-slip yoke). The vibes can transfer all the way through and make you think it's in the front.

I was thinking the same thing. I replaced the rear u joint, its all good. I put a new seal in the Tcase, and lubed it with trans gel. All that in the back seems to be fine. I never though of it, maybe I need to make sure the hubs are FREE. Maybe I have one still Locked. It might be normal at that speed to make a little noise. Also, I have not checked the front axle for gear oil either. :crazy:

HotRodPC
09-26-2011, 11:44 PM
So tonight, I was going to take pics of my Carb linkage and trans detent cable for a before and after shot. Can'f find my damn camera.

But what I did get accomplished. I took the throttle attatchment out of the little hole and put washers on both sides of it, then used the great big hole to mount the piece. Now the throttle cable is on that more forward piece and I'm getting a full throttle now when I nail it. It sure made a difference. MO POWER !!! I prolly should have left it where it was at. I was getting gas mileage. I bet I don't now. :rofl:

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 03:02 AM
I also installed an NP208 that I bought for $50 for the 85K10 over a year ago. I did this cuz I wanted to rebuild the OEM NP208 when I build the 700r4 to go back in this truck. Kind of a bummer, but it seems this Tcase leaks some trans fluid between the tailshaft and main case. Its not real bad so I might just leave it and wait for the rebuild on the original Tcase to go back in it. It appears I can get a complete seal kit off eBay for $35. Or a complete rebuild kit with bearings for $119 and $64 for a new chain. There is hardly any slop in either of my NP208s but what is anyone's reccomendation on the chain replacement? Should I just plan on a new chain too if I rebuild it with new gaskets, seals and bearings???

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 03:09 AM
After I rebuild a 350, rebuild my muncie I want to freshen up my transfer case too. My drive train seems to have a ton of slack in it, I think its the chain in my transfer case.

Also about the vibration, I have a similar issue with my truck. Its intermittent, it comes and goes. At highway speeds it will be smooth for a while and have a weird vibration for a few seconds then it goes away. I may have lost a few of the needles out of my u-joint caps when I did the transmission, would that cause a vibration?

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 03:27 AM
After I rebuild a 350, rebuild my muncie I want to freshen up my transfer case too. My drive train seems to have a ton of slack in it, I think its the chain in my transfer case.

Also about the vibration, I have a similar issue with my truck. Its intermittent, it comes and goes. At highway speeds it will be smooth for a while and have a weird vibration for a few seconds then it goes away. I may have lost a few of the needles out of my u-joint caps when I did the transmission, would that cause a vibration?

Missing Needle Bearings in your U-Joints cause vibration??? Does a Bear shit :poop: in the woods??? :roflbow:

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 03:31 AM
Missing Needle Bearings in your U-Joints cause vibration??? Does a Bear shit :poop: in the woods??? :roflbow:

Yeah I figured it might have something to do with it, especially since it stops going down hill off the throttle.

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 03:40 AM
Yeah I figured it might have something to do with it, especially since it stops going down hill off the throttle.

Fix that crap dude. U-Joints are cheap. You can get the cheap ones for about $10, the good ones for about $18. With your 305, and not having a hard hitting manual trans, you can get by with the cheap ones for quite some time if funds are the issue. But, you lose a U-Joint and have the driveshaft whipping around tearing up the truck, and damaging the driveshaft, you might end up buying an expensive driveshaft.

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 03:53 AM
yeah, I completely forgot about the missing needles. I knew better when I put it back together, I remember making a mental note that it was just for test driving the new transmission. I just completely forgot about it.

I will change the Ujoint in the next few days before my trip to Az.

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 04:09 AM
Oreilly's carries Precision which are decent. I just bought one for the front axle to the axle. It was $16. Their cheap brand is MasterPro and it was going to be like $9. In the Precision brand you can get either sealed or lubeable. I like the lubeable better so I can shoot grease in the zerks and keep them lubed. Some like the non greaseable saying they are stronger since there is not a void in the center of them to run grease. But, once that OEM grease dries up, the Ujoint wears out pretty fast.

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 04:16 AM
I am shopping for some right now, the ones I found at autozone look like cheap chineese crap. I want a greasable unit too, it just seems right after an oil change to hit all the zerks with some grease.

Hell I need to be cheap here, I might get one of the oriley ones your talking about and save a few bucks.

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 04:23 AM
I am shopping for some right now, the ones I found at autozone look like cheap chineese crap. I want a greasable unit too, it just seems right after an oil change to hit all the zerks with some grease.

Hell I need to be cheap here, I might get one of the oriley ones your talking about and save a few bucks.

Yes, the Auto Zones ones appeared to be junk to me and why I didn't buy them. I left there and came home looking for some Spicer U joints. I found out Napa carried Precision, but then remembered O'Reilly carrried Precision too and they were like $4 cheaper per Ujoint cheaper at O'Reily, so that's why I got them at O'ys. They were out of the rear one in the Precision brand, so I settled for the cheaper Master Pro, it seemed alot better than the AZone cheap brand.

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 04:27 AM
Yeah I think I will run down there in the morning, I am going to go with the 10 dollar unit for now. Eventually I will replace it with a more quality part.

I drove this at least 500 miles on the interstate like this, think it did any damage?

Irishman999
09-27-2011, 04:28 AM
feel free to move this all to my build thread if you want.

HotRodPC
09-27-2011, 05:25 AM
Yeah I think I will run down there in the morning, I am going to go with the 10 dollar unit for now. Eventually I will replace it with a more quality part.

I drove this at least 500 miles on the interstate like this, think it did any damage?

As long as the driveshaft stayed in place, and never went loose where it could smack the ground or the bottom of the truck, shouldn't be any damage. Sometimes when they go bad, if the U Joint breaks away, it can break the look on the driveshaft. Missing a couple pins should be OK. My rear one was missing all the pins in the 2 cups across from either. That one was real bad. I was lucky it didn't come unglued.

HotRodPC
10-03-2011, 06:12 PM
I think I've had ANOTHER plan change. Imagine that??? :rofl: I didn't think I'd like to keep the K1500 White, and I figured I'd want to keep the side molding since it would look so plain wo it. Although, I don't care for the molding. Only because I have a fear of water settling and living behind it and causing rust. But after looking thru the albums here and found a pic of one of our members trucks, I think it looks good in white with a pinstripe. I also have those wheels on my K10 if those are the OEM aluminum wheels. Its a cheap way out for me and looks good too. Repaint it the same color, add a pinstripe and swap wheels with the K10 and I think I'll look great with a 4in lift and 33s.

This is member 82K10's truck.
http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=139&pictureid=1126


This is my wheels that are on the 85 K10.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1017&d=1296452894

RetroC10Sport
10-03-2011, 06:41 PM
My favorite SB factory wheel.

Jims86
10-03-2011, 06:58 PM
My favorite SB factory wheel.

Thats what My burb came with, but I like the rally`s meself.

Irishman999
10-03-2011, 07:02 PM
Stock wheels are for chumps, real men buy centerlines :roflbow:

HotRodPC
10-03-2011, 07:06 PM
I just think his truck is where I'll go with mine since I should be able to do it relatively low cost since I have the wheels already, and my truck is already white so I won't have to paint door jambs and crap like that. This is likely to be the truck that gets used and abused off road, so I don't want to put a bunch of time and money into cosmetics on this one. I'll do that on the K10. His certainly looks better than mine.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3868&d=1317683193

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3869&d=1317683205

HotRodPC
10-03-2011, 07:08 PM
Stock wheels are for chumps, real men buy centerlines :roflbow:

...and pussies like Donk wheels !!! :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

Irishman999
10-03-2011, 07:14 PM
...and pussies like Donk wheels !!! :roflbow::roflbow::roflbow:

:roflbow::flipthebird:

HotRodPC
12-31-2011, 12:38 PM
We have had some very unseasonable weather the last couple days. In the mid 60's. Awesome !!! I did get the heat hoses hooked up to the heater core yesterday. It really does leak, so disconnected them again. Put some radiator flush in the system with some new clean water. Gonna let it run today for awhile, drain it all out again, and put new Antifreeze and coolant in it. It was looking fairly nasty. I do like the cooling system on this truck. The recovery bottle and hose are in great shape and it works just like its supposed to. I'm sure the bottle has been replaced before. Its very white in color not faded like most are. Its an OEM bottle too. :waytogo: Later on I'll put a new heater core in it. Still need to figure out why no fan power and no power window power. I've been told they are on the same circuit, but no so sure. Need to find out some info on that. I'd sure like the truck alot better when I can roll down the windows and have a heater.

89Suburban
12-31-2011, 02:24 PM
We have had some very unseasonable weather the last couple days. In the mid 60's. Awesome !!! I did get the heat hoses hooked up to the heater core yesterday. It really does leak, so disconnected them again. Put some radiator flush in the system with some new clean water. Gonna let it run today for awhile, drain it all out again, and put new Antifreeze and coolant in it. It was looking fairly nasty. I do like the cooling system on this truck. The recovery bottle and hose are in great shape and it works just like its supposed to. I'm sure the bottle has been replaced before. Its very white in color not faded like most are. Its an OEM bottle too. :waytogo: Later on I'll put a new heater core in it. Still need to figure out why no fan power and no power window power. I've been told they are on the same circuit, but no so sure. Need to find out some info on that. I'd sure like the truck alot better when I can roll down the windows and have a heater.Plus heat for the defrost in shitty weather, you got A/C on that truck?

HotRodPC
12-31-2011, 02:33 PM
Yep, its AC equipped, just needs a blower. Already been converted to R134a too.

HotRodPC
01-03-2012, 05:32 AM
I just bought this on fleeBay. This truck still has the ESC dizzy in it. Going away from that into this standard HEI non ESC dizzy. I'm sure with a recurve, and vac advance, I can get more performance out of this dizzy.
$45.50 Delivered to my door w/ 3yr warranty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350500104045?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

http://i11.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/32/92/e46f_12.JPG

http://i24.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/32/92/e769_12.JPG

crazy4offroad
01-03-2012, 08:19 AM
When you get that distributor let us know if it really looks like that or if that was just a generic pic, that's an awesome deal for the price!

89Suburban
01-03-2012, 12:49 PM
I just bought this on fleeBay. This truck still has the ESC dizzy in it. Going away from that into this standard HEI non ESC dizzy. I'm sure with a recurve, and vac advance, I can get more performance out of this dizzy.
$45.50 Delivered to my door w/ 3yr warranty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350500104045?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

http://i11.ebayimg.com/06/i/001/32/92/e46f_12.JPG

http://i24.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/32/92/e769_12.JPG
That looks nice.

HotRodPC
01-03-2012, 02:31 PM
I better look like that, and with the guys feedback, I'm sure it does. You're right, it's a steal and I'll be buying at least 2 more. They come with Coil, ignition module, brass dizzy cap and rotor, pick up and all. You can't get a brass tipped dizzy cap and rotor for less than $27, so with all the added stuff, you can't beat it. He also has the same thing in clear cap, black and I beleive Blue too. I wanted the red, cuz when I replace the cap and rotor, I'll go with Mallory and it will match the Red Coil cover. I'll be converting 2 more of my squares to standard HEI and away from the ESC. Hopefully the 4th one will be an LS or Vortec and no need for the HEI Dizzy. At this price though, not a bad idea to have a spare since I have 3 trucks that use it. Never know when a pick up, coil or module may go bad.

HotRodPC
01-03-2012, 02:33 PM
OH, and for a $1 more, you can get a Lifetime warranty instead of 3yr. I was a .60 cents short in my PayPal account or I might have done that instead, but if it lasts 3 years, it'll likley last 10 years and he may be out of biz by then, and with the world ending this year....

Irishman999
01-03-2012, 02:42 PM
That looks like the exact unit I got from Mr. Clean, mine has performed flawlessly the past year. You should have gone with the clear cap, its pretty cool.

HotRodPC
01-03-2012, 02:51 PM
I would have if you said you get to see a light show. But I actually wanted the super coil cover to match Mallory ignition or MSD parts. I'm funky like that. I"ll probably want RED plug wires too. Accel makes a pretty good cap and rotor too, but I hate that ugly blah putrid brownish color.